Always consult your veterinarian before using any home remedy/ or if your pet is exhibiting signs of a more serious condition. Use this website as a reference at your own discretion. Just some of the topics covered are anxiety, brushing teeth, hiking tips, how to deliver puppies/kittens, dander, animals with ADHD and dangerous plants just to name a few. These references are only the opinion of the website owners referenced. There is also a page on this website for animal CPR and other serious injuries.

Please Don’t Go! Coping with Separation Anxiety in Pets

When your dog suffers from separation anxiety, leaving the house can be just as stressful for you as it is for him. No one likes to see a beloved pet upset—plus, any time away from home might be spent worrying what kind of mess awaits your return. Will your pooch tear up the sofa? Chew the walls? Pee on the carpet? Shake, drool and bark for hours?

Overcoming disorders like separation anxiety takes time, patience and consistency, but it can be done! Don’t wait any longer: take control of your dog’s happiness—and your own—just in time for summer travel season. Follow the advice of ASPCA animal behaviorists, and next time you drop off Fido at a friend’s house or the boarding kennel, you’ll feel sweet relief knowing that you miss him more than he misses you.

• Doctor Knows Best
  The first step in tackling behavior issues is to rule out any underlying medical problems that might be causing your pet’s behavior. For example, if your pet is urinating in the house, he might be suffering from a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, diabetes or kidney disease.
  
  
• Keep It Mellow
  All greetings—hellos and goodbyes—should be conducted in a very calm manner. When saying goodbye, just give your dog a pat on the head, say goodbye and leave. Similarly, when arriving home, say hello to your dog and then don’t pay any more attention to him until he’s calm and relaxed.
  
  
• Dogs Need Jobs
  Providing lots of physical and mental stimulation is a vital part of treating many behavior problems, especially those involving anxiety. Exercise can enrich your dog’s life, decrease stress and provide appropriate outlets for normal behavior. Plus, a tired dog doesn’t have much excess energy to burn when he’s left alone!

http://www.aspca.org/blog/please-dont-go-coping-with.aspx

Don't Stress Over Pet Stress — Combat It

Bigstockphoto

Is stress killing your pet? Harried hounds and frazzled felines are more common than you think. In fact, stress contributes to or worsens many medical conditions in pets and people.

So how can you reduce the harmful effects of stress on your pet? Although there are no easy answers or silver bullets when it comes to overcoming stress and anxiety, there are some simple steps you can take to reduce your pet’s stress — and help both of you live longer, more enjoyable lives.

First of all, it's good to understand that there are different types of stress — and some stress is actually good for you. There’s even a scientific name for this beneficial stress: eustress.

Eustress is the sort of stress you experience when you’re exercising or training for an event, preparing for a test or learning a skill. As long as you remain calm and cool, these challenges are beneficial to you. This is why I encourage everyone to map out several new experiences for the New Year.

In terms of goals for your pets, think about what would be healthy or fun for you and your animal. Create challenges for your cat by teaching her to play fetch, tackle a food puzzle or follow a feather dancer. If you are a dog owner,  pledge to walk your pooch every day for at least 15 to 30 minutes — even if it's raining, sleeting or snowing. Then log your progress on a calendar or start a blog: The Year of Walking My Dog. I’d read it. You could even take a picture and post it each day on Facebook. At the end of the year, you could make a video collage and have forever memories to share. I’ve digressed here, but I’m ultimately trying to inspire you to exercise with your dog. It will make both of you happier and reduce stress — which is the real enemy.

Combating stress is critical. Not the fancy-pants “eustress” kind I wrote about above, but the my-kids-are-crying-and-my-boss-is-yelling stress we know too well. Pets recognize and experience it, too. While humans can complain about it on Facebook, dogs and cats have to take it in silence. Just imagine living the life of a predator who's confined inside four small walls. Or envision if every fiber in your body screams, “Chase that squirrel,” yet you never get to go outside for more than a quick potty break. It would be frustrating and stressful.

Stress not only negatively impacts our emotional well-being, but it also wreaks havoc on our bodies. Chronic, low-grade stress in people and pets increases levels of the hormone cortisol, which leads to overeating and obesity, high blood pressure, digestive problems, insomnia, increased susceptibility to infections, aggression and irritability, to name a few.

So go ahead and commit to finishing that 5k, half-marathon or even an Ironman triathlon this year to help yourself — and make a similar plan for your pet. It doesn't matter what you choose to do, as long as you keep moving forward. You’ll both live longer and be healthier for it.

Five Fire Safety Tips for People with Pets

We shudder to think about it. But according to the National Fire Protection Association, each year more than 1,000 house fires are accidentally started by pets. As part of National Preparedness Month, we suggest you take a minute to pet proof your home against potential fire hazards—it could mean the difference between life and death for your four-legged friends.

Secure wires and cords. Cats are especially interested in playing with anything that looks like string. Keep electrical wires and power cords secured and out of your pet’s reach.

Blow it out. Don't leave lit candles unattended. Pets may burn themselves or cause a fire if they knock the candles over. Be sure to use appropriate candle holders placed on a stable surface. Want to be really safe? Consider using only flameless candles.

Cover it up. Pets are naturally curious and will investigate almost anything that has a scent. This includes your oven. Be sure to remove stove knobs or protect them with covers before leaving the house. Believe it or not, exploring stove tops is the number one way your pet can accidently start a fire.

Go crazy with the detectors. There is no such thing as too many smoke detectors. In fact, you should have at least one on each floor of your home. Out a lot? Consider using monitored smoke detectors. These systems send an immediate alert to a call center letting them know smoke has been detected.

Stick ‘em up. In the event of an emergency, our pet rescue sticker alerts rescue personnel that animals are inside your home. Write down the number of pets inside and attach the sticker to a front window or door.

For more information on preparing your family for an emergency, please read our list of Disaster Readiness tips.

The Latest in Training Puppy Training 101: How to Properly Socialize Your Dog Socializing a puppy is a lot like drumming up friends of your own: The more you mingle, the more progress you make. Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can (people, places, and other animals).  How to help your puppy make new friends › Video: How to Stuff a Kong for Your Dog Kongs or other types of hollow-cavity dog toys that can be filled with treats are a dog trainer’s toys of choice. A Kong can keep a dog of any age busy for hours, and a busy dog is less likely to display destructive behaviors.  See how Mikkel uses Kongs › More in Training VIDEO: Teach Your Dog to Wait for the Food Bowl Litterbox Training Your Cat Dog Agility Training: Is It Right for Your Pet? VIDEO: Train Your Dog to Stay

Tip Of The Week

The trick to teaching your dog to heel: Decide whether you want him to walk on your right or left side, then position his shoulder next to your leg. When to opt for clicker training ›

To see more: http://www.vetstreet.com/train/

Why Does My Cat... Meow at Me?

Dreamstime

Behaviorists say that cats meow at humans because they want something and, most important, because meowing gets results.

And that’s undeniably true. Meowing works. But why?

Interestingly, some experts say that the sound “meow,” as we know it, developed at least in part because we humans associate it with the needy cry of an infant. But it’s also undeniable that kittens meow when they want something. So it’s no stretch to assume cats didn’t learn to associate meows with requests.

But cats can meow at varying frequencies, pitches, tones, volumes, and lengths. A meow imploring you to open the back door, for example, can sound completely different from the excited, “I’m about to be fed” meow, which is totally different from the meow that happens right before you scratch her right behind her ear at bedtime.

As anyone who’s ever heard two different cats meow knows, no two feline voices are ever exactly the same. But beyond the vagaries of voice box machinery, most of the variation comes from the cat’s own personality. And there’s no predicting how the interaction of any given human-cat personality pairing will affect meowing. After all, when some cats learn that meowing brings them satisfaction, the very act of meowing can become satisfactory in its own right.

So what do you do when the vocal requests get continuous or turn into an obsessive, repetitive behavior? It’s always a good idea to take kitty to the veterinarian’s office to make sure nothing is awry. If the veterinarian doesn’t find any physical problem, you may want to seek out a certified animal behaviorist or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist to get the answer you need.

But rest assured, the vast majority of vocal cats are not pathologically afflicted. Quite the opposite, most are simply voicing their healthy demands—pleasurably.

This article was written by a Veterinarian. http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/why-does-my-cat-meow-at-me

Tip Of The Week

Regular walks are an important part of a happy dog’s life, but many frustrated
owners feel as if their pets are walking them. 
Address the problem with the loose-leash method ›

Glucose Monitors To Treat Diabetes In Animals

How to avoid you or you dog from being shocked by ordinary street lamp posts and other metal on our streets.

Contact Voltage is a chronic hidden hazard that can cause injury or death to unsuspecting pedestrians, dog walkers, and their pets. Be aware that any metal or electrical street fixture may present a potential hazard, if the street itself or its above ground electrical equipment is damaged.  A fixture may be pernicious in spite of appearing visibly intact or in the case of lights, unilluminated.

While moisture from rain, ice, snow, or extreme heat can pose the greatest likelihood of a shocking, the risk occurs irrespective of external conditions.  In sum, pedestrians are urged to be on guard and attempt to make more prudent, free standing, non-conductive contact whenever possible.

Avoid tying your dog's leash or leaning/locking your bike onto a lamppost which may appear intact, even unilluminated, but could possibly be leaking voltage.  Non-conductive objects and surfaces, unless salted, are always safer options year-round for you and your dog. Lamppost poles and their compartments are a possible source of shock as thieves and vandals can easily access the electrical connections at their base. Pedestrians should be aware that an ajar or missing panel or one with a protuberant plug constitute significant warnings of tampering/risk.  When the photo cell is damaged internally, a lamppost compartment can leak voltage ... whether or NOT it is illuminated, even when appearing to be fully intact.

Other Ways to help avoid shocking: All footwear provides some insulation, but none guarantees protection.  Open-toed shoes and sandals provide the least safety.  While shoes offer a protective barrier and rubber provides a greater likelihood of voltage deflection than leather or other permeable materials, none precludes shocking.  The only guaranteed insulation may be found in specialty shoes constructed to insure a greater buffer, but even power workers sporadically inspect their shoes for surety.

Dog booties are a no-no: Dog booties may become saturated and will not protect your pooch. In fact, canine shoes may actually INCREASE THE CHANCE OF A SHOCKING if water logged.  A person can complain of leaky boots, a dog can't! Further, the dog booties safety issue is beyond the claim of being "waterproof" as any electrical surety would also require durability and resistance to punctures which would permit liquids to permeate their composition.  The lining may or may not hold water, and without lab testing, it is disingenous to suggest impermeability.   Further, even after testing, the boots must be checked constantly for damage.  Every time an electrical lineman puts on gloves, the technician folds them to trap air and then squeezes the fingers to see if, in fact, any air escapes.  If they do, then there is a hole somewhere and the gloves are discarded.  And if electricians vouchsafe their accessories, then the walker must also do so for the vulnerable dog.   Washing a dogs' paws with warm water once indoors and after exposure to deicers or merely staying indoors with restroom products, pads, or even just newspapers are better alternatives than the false security of canine shoes. Please note that at present, booties' materials and recommended Musher's Wax, merely shield against conventional externals: cold, moisture, and rock salt.

For more information: http://www.streetzaps.com/safety.htm

Keeping Your Dog Safe Preventing Pet Theft

It is estimated that more than 2 million pets go missing each year. Yet, unlike missing children, of which more than 96 percent are recovered, according to the National Center for Missing and Exploited Children, national pet organizations have estimated that fewer than 10 percent of pets are found. In fact, the National Lost & Found Pet Database claims the recovery rates decrease drastically when pets are not located within the first days. Animals are being kidnapped at a startling rate throughout the country creating a pet theft epidemic where dogs are stolen and sold to the highest-paying client – often the research industry. This multi-billion dollar industry has many types of thieves who want to steal pets, so if you’re out for a walk, at the dog park or even in your own backyard, it is important to keep your dog safe.
Here are some precautions to heed so that your pet doesn’t end up a statistic:

                           PREVENTIONS

• Never leave your dog unattended. Your dog is in greatest danger when left alone in a place where he/she can be taken. In many jurisdictions, this practice is also illegal.
• Padlock your fenced yard. This measure places an extra burden on a thief who might otherwise walk into your yard and off with your dog. And even at home, be sure to and keep your dog out of view of passersby.
• Do not include your dog’s name on his name tag. Your dog may be more inclined to leave with a thief who calls him/her by name.
• Microchip and tattoo your dog. While dogs are often required to wear rabies and license/registration tags, these tags can be easily removed by a pet thief. A microchip, being approximately the same size as a grain of rice, can be injected just beneath your dog’s skin and is thereby invisible to a prospective thief. A scanning device may then be used to check your dog electronic identification information. While procedures and requirements for microchip scanning vary among state and local governments, many shelters have adopted procedures for scanning animals prior to transfer or euthanasia. For those institutions not equipped with the proper scanning technology, a tattoo including your personal identification information, and/or your dog’s purebred registration numbers (if applicable), can be placed inside his/her thigh or on his/her belly. Like the microchip, a tattoo is a permanent form of identification. Reputable medical research labs fear the repercussions associated with pet theft and will likely refuse to accept animals with registered tattoos and microchips.
• Register your information. Unregistered microchips and tattoos will be useless to authorities attempting to reunite you with your dog.
• Spay and/or neuter your dog. Not only are mandatory spay/neuter ordinances becoming the law in many cities and counties but also spaying/neutering your pet eliminates the resale value of your dog to an illegal breeder. Depending upon their experimental needs, medical research labs may be less likely to accept animals that have been altered.
• Keep tabs on your community. If you suspect that an animal hoarder or dog fighter lives in your area, inform your neighbors and the authorities. If such persons are found, seek the assistance of local no-kill shelters for rehabilitation and re-homing of the animal victims. While you may not be able to prevent unscrupulous individuals from stealing animals, you can take steps to protect your own dog.

 http://content.theamericandogmag.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=225:keep-your-dog-safe&catid=42:dog-safety&Itemid=104

For more information: Anna Morrison-Ricordati
anna@amrlawgroup.com This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
www.animalwelfareattorney.com

Did you know that rabbits are wonderful indoor companions? They are quiet, clean, affectionate animals who can easily be litter box trained! My House Rabbit is dedicated to celebrating house rabbits and educating the public about rabbit care and behavior. You can find information about creating a safe, welcoming environment for your rabbit and gain some insight into bunny behavior, so you will better understand your rabbit's needs.

Featured House Rabbit Articles

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  Taking Your House Rabbit Outdoors

  It is very tempting to take your house rabbit outside in the sunny weather, but be careful in doing so. While taking your rabbit outside for short, structured and supervised visits, be sure to consider the following tips. [Read more]

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  Thinking About Getting a Pet Rabbit?

  Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets. They are adorable and brimming with personality. But before you swoop into the shelter and pick out a cutie, there are a few things you should know to ensure a rabbit is right for you and your family. [Read more] http://www.myhouserabbit.com/
  

Natural Flea Control

Controlling fleas indoors

 Fleas in the home can be easily and effectively eradicated without the use of poisons. The age-old scourge of fleas, usually associated with pet dogs or cats, can affect any home. And while chemical-based flea treatments can be effective, they may pose health hazards to occupants as well as pets. Natural and non-toxic flea control methods are safer options.

Groom house pets and check for fleas

Combing your cat or dog daily with a flea comb is an important part of flea control. Bathing animals regularly is also advised. There is no need to use chemical flea shampoos. A water bath with a gentle soap that won't irritate their skin is sufficient to eliminate existing fleas.  The best way to check your pet for fleas is to comb your pet with a fine-toothed flea comb – especially over the lower back near the tail base. You may pick up an adult flea, or you may collect black, pepper-like material. To determine if this black material is flea feces, place the debris on a white paper towel and add a drop of water. If it is flea feces, you will see a reddish-brown stain develop around the “pepper” – since flea feces is actually digested blood.

Set a trap

See Here: Guidance On Caring For A Blind Dog

Adopting a non-seeing dog or caring for a dog who’s going blind may be less worrisome – and more rewarding than you might think. Here’s some sound advice (and a few nifty tricks) to put both you and your pooch on sure footing. – Global Animal

I have a bichon frise that’s going blind. I’ve heard of dogs being trained to help as a seeing-eye dog for their “siblings.”Do you have any advice on how we can do this? The dog going blind is 6 and has been with us since birth. The other bichon frise is a rescue dog that gets along with her “sister” well.

It’s great that you are already planning on ways to help your pet adjust to the changes in vision. Here’s a link to a story on Paw Nation that is just exactly what you’’re asking about, i.e. one dog in the household being the guide dog for a dog who is blind. There are some things you can do to get started. Remember, your blind dog will now see the world through the other senses of smell, touch, and hearing.

1. Establish a daily schedule with routines so the blind dog knows what is about to happen. This includes keeping meal times, play and exercise time, and bedtime routines fairly consistent. It is also important to keep everyday objects in their same places (e.g. the blind dog’s food dish or bed is always to the right of the other dog's).

2. Be sure to use verbal cues throughout the day to tell the blind dog what is happening. For example, “Let's go for a walk!” or “Time for dinner!”

3. Have the helper dog wear tags or a bell on her collar so the blind dog can hear when she is nearby or is approaching.

4. You can play games with both dogs that engage other senses such as using toys that have bells, or involve finding treats.

5. Take both dogs for walks together so the blind dog can follow (or be next to) the scent of the sighted dog. You could try a coupler, a short piece of leash that joins two dogs, and eventually fade this once your blind dog knows the drill.

6. Teach the sighted dog the command, ”Go get (use the dog’s name here).” If the sighted dog is clueless the first time you say this, you can start a few feet away, give the command, and take the dog to the blind dog. Over time, you will get further away (in behavioral terms, this is called shaping), until you can send the dog across the room to the blind dog. Then, you can call both dogs to come to you.

7. If your dogs don’t come when called, teach this behavior to one dog at a time with a treat. AKC Canine Good Citizen training will teach basic skills such as coming when called. For more advanced skills (such as the “go get sister” command), consider getting one-on-one help with a Canine Good Citizen trainer near you.

Good luck! It sounds like you have two great dogs.

http://www.pawnation.com/2010/09/22/akc-animal-behaviorist-seeing-eye-dog-for-blind-dog/

For a true account of one person’s experience adopting a blind dog, see this heart-warming story:  Woman Gains Insight From Adopted Blind Dog

 

How To De-Skunk Your Dog

The Human Society of the United States

If your dog has a chance encounter with Pepe Le Pew, would you know what to do? Skunks are everywhere—in the country and in the city—and if your dog gets sprayed, there are a few ways you can rid him of the scent without using your entire ketchup supply to do it. Over-the-counter products like Nature’s Miracle Skunk Odor Remover, are a quick fix, but if you don’t have a de-skunking product on hand, try the following:

Step 1: Keep Fido Outside. Keep your dog outside after he’s been sprayed so he doesn’t carry the smell into your house. Check his eyes and if they’re irritated or red, immediately rinse them with cold water.

Step 2: Mix the Ingredients. Use rubber gloves to wash your dog immediately after he’s been sprayed. Use a mixture of:

• 1 quart, 3 percent hydrogen peroxide
• 1/4 cup baking soda
• 1 teaspoon liquid soap

Do not save this mixture or make it ahead of time, as it could explode if left in a bottle. If you don’t have all these ingredients on hand, use vinegar diluted with water.

Step 3: Clean and Rinse. Rub the mixture through your dog’s fur, but don’t leave it on him too long (peroxide can bleach his fur). Rinse him thoroughly.

Step 4: Shampoo. Next, wash your dog with a mild pet shampoo and rinse him thoroughly. By now, he should be de-skunked and smelling sweet.

Bonus Tip: If the dog rubbed some of the stink on you, you can rid your clothes of the smell by using regular laundry detergent mixed with a 1/2 cup baking soda.

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/dog_care/de-skunking_your_dog.html

 

How To Crate Train Your Dog

Crate training a dog can help in the process of house training, and can keep your dog feeling safe and happy during frightening events like thunderstorms. It can also protect your belongings from a curious puppy’s mouth. Read on to learn how to train your dog to crate. — Global Animal

Photo Credit: Downtown Pets Humane Society of the United States

“Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home.” That’s how your dog might describe his crate. It’s his own personal den where he can find comfort and solitude while you know he’s safe and secure—and not shredding your house while you’re out running errands.

Crating philosophy

Crate training uses a dog’s natural instincts as a den animal. A wild dog’s den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog’s den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

• The primary use for a crate is house training. Dogs don’t like to soil their dens.
• The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other rules, like not to chew on furniture.
• Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.

Crating caution!

A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated.

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog in the crate too long.  A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of time he must spend in his crate every day.
• Puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long.  The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained.  Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Selecting a crate

Several types of crates are available:

• Plastic (often called “flight kennels”)
• Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
• Collapsible, metal pens

Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other. Your local animal shelter may rent out crates.  By renting, you can trade up to the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you can invest in a permanent crate.

The crate training process

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

• The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
• Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introduce your dog to the crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure. Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate right away.  If yours isn’t one of them:

• Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
• Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter.
• Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed your dog his meals in the crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

• If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
• If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
• If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Step 3: Lengthen the crating periods

After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home.

• Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
• Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
• After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
• Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day, gradually increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight.
• Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4, Part A: Crate your dog when you leave

After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house.

• Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
• Vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
• Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged—they should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Step 4, Part B: Crate your dog at night

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they don’t associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Potential problems

Whining. If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.

If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/crate_training.html

Is Your Dog Overindulging This Season? Watch Out for Pancreatitis

Dreamstime

’Tis the season for family gatherings, gift giving and food galore. Veterinarians know this is also the season for canine pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas), a painful, potentially life-threatening condition most commonly caused by overindulgence in foods that are particularly rich or fatty. And what kitchen isn’t overflowing with such foods this time of year?

What Is the Pancreas?

The pancreas is a thin, boomerang-shaped, delicate-appearing organ that resides in the abdominal cavity, tucked up against the stomach and small intestine. Though the pancreas may be diminutive in appearance, its actions are mighty! It is the body’s source of insulin (necessary for controlling blood sugar levels) as well as digestive enzymes, which are necessary for proper absorption of nutrients. When pancreatitis is chronic or particularly severe, this little factory sometimes permanently closes down, resulting in diabetes mellitus and/or exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, requiring insulin injections and digestive enzyme replacement therapy, respectively.

When a dog eats, enzymes are released from the pancreas into the small intestine where they are activated for food digestion. Sometimes, for reasons we do not fully understand, these enzymes are activated within the pancreas itself, resulting in the inflammation of pancreatitis. In addition to eating rich or fatty foods, other known causes of pancreatitis include hormonal imbalances, inherited defects in fat metabolism and some medications. For some affected dogs, an underlying cause is never found. Symptoms associated with pancreatitis are variable but may include vomiting, abdominal discomfort, and decreased activity and appetite.

How a Vet Diagnoses Pancreatitis

Short of performing a pancreatic biopsy (a surgical procedure), diagnosing pancreatitis can be challenging, because noninvasive tests are fraught with false-negative and false-positive results. Veterinarians must rely on a combination of the following:

• A history of dietary indiscretion, vomiting and lethargy.
• Physical examination findings (particularly abdominal pain).
• Characteristic complete blood cell count (CBC) and blood chemistry abnormalities.
• A positive or elevated Spec cPL (canine pancreas-specific lipase) blood test.
• Characteristic abnormalities found on an abdominal ultrasound.

Treatment of Pancreatitis

There is no cure for pancreatitis — much like a bruise, the inflammation must resolve on its own. Treatment consists of hospitalization for the administration of intravenous fluids, antibiotics to prevent secondary infection or abscess formation, and injectable medications to control vomiting, pain and stomach acid secretion. Affected dogs should ideally be monitored around the clock for the life-threatening complications that sometimes accompany pancreatitis, such as kidney failure, heart rhythm abnormalities, respiratory distress and bleeding disorders. If your dog has pancreatitis, count on a minimum of two to three days of hospitalization and be sure to ask who will be caring for your dog during the night.

At-home treatment for pancreatitis typically involves feeding a low-fat or fat-free diet. This may be a life-long recommendation, particularly if your dog has been a repeat offender. Most dogs fully recover with appropriate therapy; however, some succumb to complications associated with pancreatitis.

Preventing Pancreatitis

1. When in doubt, check with your veterinarian before offering human food to your pet. This is especially true if your pet is on a special diet or has an existing medical condition.
2. If you feel you must give holiday foods, do so sparingly and only if well-tolerated by your dog’s gastrointestinal tract and waistline. Keep in mind that whether offered a teaspoon or a tablespoon of something delicious, most dogs will gulp it down in the same amount of time and reap the same psychological benefit.
3. Don’t offer tidbits from the table while you are eating. This is a setup for bad behavior. Offer the treat only after you’ve left the table.
4. Most importantly, if you shouldn’t be eating the food yourself (emphasis on shouldn’t), please don’t feed it to your dog! By all means, give your precious pup a bit of turkey breast but without the skin attached and unaccompanied by fat-laden sour cream mashed potatoes and gravy. Remember, most dogs are so darned excited about getting a treat, they don’t care what it is, only that they’re getting it!

Some people dream of sugarplum fairies, a white Christmas and stress-free family gatherings. I’m dreaming of a holiday season in which not a single dog develops pancreatitis!

To read more: http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/is-your-dog-overindulging-this-season-watch-out-for-pancreatitis?WT.mc_id=Email;NewsLetter;Petwire;Dec-20;Article3

   Springtime Safety Tips

Spring has sprung, and with the change of season, our thoughts inevitably turn to Easter celebrations, spring cleaning and much-needed home improvement projects. But the new balmy weather can prove not-so-sunny for curious pets—or their unwitting parents. Before you embark on seasonal chores or outdoor revelry, take inventory of potential springtime hazards for your delicate, furry friend. To help you out, our ASPCA experts have come up with a few seasonal tips that will help prevent mishaps or misfortunes.

• Easter Treats and Decorations
  Keep Easter lilies and candy bunnies in check—chocolate goodies are toxic to cats, dogs and ferrets, and lilies can be fatal if ingested by our furry friends. And be mindful, kitties love to nibble on colorful plastic grass, which can lead to an obstructed digestive tract, severe vomiting and dehydration. Moreover, while bunnies, chicks and other festive animals are adorable, resist the urge to buy—these cute babies grow up fast and often require specialized care!
    
• Screen Yourself
  Many pet parents welcome the breezy days of spring by opening their windows. Unfortunately, they also unknowingly put their pets at risk—especially cats, who are apt to jump or fall through un-screened windows. Be sure to install snug and sturdy screens in all of your windows. If you have adjustable screens, make sure they are tightly wedged into window frames.
    
• Buckle Up!
  While every pet parent knows dogs love to feel the wind on their furry faces, allowing them to ride in the bed of pick-up trucks or stick their heads out of moving-car windows is dangerous. Flying debris and insects can cause inner ear or eye injuries and lung infections, and abrupt stops or turns can cause major injury, or worse! Pets in cars should always be secured in a crate or wearing a seat belt harness designed especially for them.
    
• Spring Cleaning
  Spring cleaning is a time-honored tradition in many households, but be sure to keep all cleaners and chemicals out of your pets’ way! Almost all commercially sold cleaning products contain chemicals that are harmful to pets. The key to using them safely is to read and follow label directions for proper use and storage.
    
• Home Improvement 101
  Products such as paints, mineral spirits and solvents can be toxic to your pets and cause severe irritation or chemical burns. Carefully read all labels to see if the product is safe to use around your furry friends. Also, be cautious of physical hazards, including nails, staples, insulation, blades and power tools. It may be wise to confine your dog or cat to a designated pet-friendly room during home improvement projects.
   
• Let Your Garden Grow—With Care
  Pet parents, take care—fertilizers, insecticides and herbicides keep our plants and lawns healthy and green, but their ingredients aren't meant for four-legged consumption and can be fatal if your pet ingests them.  Always store these poisonous products in out-of-the-way places and follow label instructions carefully. Check out our full list of garden care tips.
    
• Poisonous Plants 
  Time to let your garden grow! But beware, many popular springtime plants—including Easter lilies, rhododendron and azaleas—are highly toxic to pets and can easily prove fatal if eaten. Check out our full list—and pics!—of toxic and non-toxic plants for your home and garden.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/springtime-safety-tips.html

Natural Treatment for Ear Infection in Dogs

                                              

By Jayme Otto, Natural Solutions

Dogs hear the darnedest things, but their ears’ construction makes them especially prone to infection. The ear canal drops down and turns sharply before meeting the eardrum, creating dark, dank grounds for infection-causing bacteria and yeast to overgrow when exposed to moisture, explains Robert Silver, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Boulder, Colorado. Floppy-eared dogs are even more susceptible because their canals don’t get much airflow to help dry moisture.

If your pup’s prone to infection, after he dunks in the lake or tromps through the snow, Silver suggests using a solution of one part acidic apple cider vinegar and one part astringent witch hazel to lower pH and up the ears’ natural infection-thwarting power. If his canals are inflamed or he’s been scratching, swap witch hazel for non-stinging spring water.

Pour the mixture into the ear canal; fill to the brim, and then compress the canal with your thumb and fingers. Keeping your dog still, vigorously massage the entire length of the canal from the outside–it’s OK to give it a good squeeze. After a few minutes of kneading, let him shake his head, and then clear out any remaining solution with a light towel. Repeat for other ear. Chronic infections may stem from food allergies or sensitivities, so a holistic vet can help make appropriate dietary changes.

Natural Solutions: Vibrant Health, Balanced Living offers its readers the latest news on health conditions, herbs and supplements, natural beauty products, healing foods and conscious living. Click here for a free sample issue.

If you's like to read more on this:

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/natural-treatment-for-ear-infection-in-dogs.html

Dogs in Cars Can Cause Risky Behavior Behind the Wheel

Whether it’s a joyride or a long haul, taking your dogs for a drive can be fun for everyone involved—but it’s important always to buckle up your pet. In the U.S. alone, an estimated 30,000 car accidents are caused annually by unrestrained pets. In a recent survey of dog parents by the American Automobile Association (AAA), 59% of respondents admitted to participating in at least one distracting behavior while driving with a dog. More than half pet their dog while driving, and 21% let their dog to sit in their laps.

Any behavior that takes a driver’s eyes off the road increases the risk of a crash, and stopping short can send an unrestrained dog flying, causing severe injury to pet and passengers. The ASPCA urges motoring pet parents to keep their pets safe and secure in the back seat in a well-ventilated crate, carrier, or harness. If you choose a crate or carrier, make sure it’s large enough for your pet to stand, sit, lie down and turn around in.

Here are some more tips to keep your end-of-summer road trips festive and injury-free:

• I myself seat belt in my larger dog by his harness.
• I also have full coverage on my car and Progressive Insurance offers Vet coverage on my dog in case of an accident and they are hurt.
• Always secure your pet’s crate so it won’t slide or shift in the event of a quick stop.
  
• Resist the urge to feed your furry friend in a moving vehicle—even if it’s during a long ride. 
• Avoid letting your pet ride with his head outside the car window. He could be injured by flying objects!
• Bring along a favorite toy or pillow to give your pet a sense of familiarity and comfort.

For more helpful hints, please visit our Top 10 Tips for Safe Car Travel with Your Pet.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/car-travel-tips.html

Halloween Safety Tips

1. No tricks, no treats: That bowl of candy is for trick-or-treaters, not for Scruffy and Fluffy. Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for dogs and cats. Candies containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can also cause problems. If you do suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

2. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, but they can produce stomach upset in pets who nibble on them.

3. Wires and cords from electric lights and other decorations should be kept out of reach of your pets. If chewed, your pet might suffer cuts or burns, or receive a possibly life-threatening electrical shock.

4. A carved pumpkin certainly is festive, but do exercise caution if you choose to add a candle. Pets can easily knock a lit pumpkin over and cause a fire. Curious kittens especially run the risk of getting burned or singed by candle flames.

5. Dress-up can be a big mess-up for some pets. Please don't put your dog or cat in a costume UNLESS you know he or she loves it (yup, a few pets are real hams!). For pets who prefer their “birthday suits,” however, wearing a costume may cause undue stress.

6. If you do dress up your pet, make sure the costume isn't annoying or unsafe. It should not constrict the animal's movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Also, be sure to try on costumes before the big night. If your pet seems distressed, allergic or shows abnormal behavior, consider letting him go au naturale or donning a festive bandana.

7. Take a closer look at your pet’s costume and make sure it does not have small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get twisted on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.

8. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room away from the front door during peak trick-or-treating hours. Too many strangers can be scary and stressful for pets.

9. When opening the door for trick-or-treaters, take care that your cat or dog doesn't dart outside.

10. IDs, please! Always make sure your dog or cat has proper identification. If for any reason your pet escapes and becomes lost, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver, increasing the chances that he or she will be returned to you.

To read more: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/halloween-safety-tips.aspx

Common Pet Poisons Lurking in Your Garden

Happy National Poison Prevention Week! As pet parents honor this week by assessing animal toxins in their homes, the ASPCA wants to remind folks to take care when planning (or planting) their springtime gardens, too. Whether you’re blessed with balmy weather already or are patiently awaiting the first day of spring (March 20, holla!), please be mindful of the season’s toxic obstacles for our furry friends.

Last year, the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center fielded tens of thousands of calls related to pets who accidentally ingested or came in contact with garden-related products, including insecticides, weed killers and pet-toxic plants. Don’t let your furry beloved become a victim of your green thumb—read our expert tips below.

• When designing and planting your green space, keep in mind that many popular outdoor plants—including sago palm, rhododendron and azalea—are toxic to cats and dogs, and may cause liver failure or heart problems.
  
• When walking your dog, take care to keep Fido off the grass and away from toxic lawn and garden products. Cocoa mulch—a byproduct of chocolate—is especially problematic because it attracts dogs with its sweet smell and can cause them gastrointestinal distress or more serious neurological problems if consumed in large quantities.
  
• Always store pesticides in inaccessible areas. The most dangerous forms of pesticides include snail bait with metaldehyde, fly bait with methomyl, insecticides with the ingredients disyston or disulfoton, mole or gopher bait with zinc phosphide, and most forms of rat poisons.
  
• Unattended garden tools may seem like no big deal, but rakes, tillers, hoes and trowels can be hazardous to pets and cause trauma to paws, noses or other parts of a curious pet's body. Please leave all unused tools in a safe area, not haphazardly scattered on the ground.

For a complete list of tips, check out our online guide to Pet-Safe Gardening. Now, get thee to a nursery and have a safe spring season!

To read more: http://www.aspca.org/News/National/National-News-Detail.aspx?NDate=20110318&NType=National#News1

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Brewer's Yeast & Tick Prevention

There is also another solution I know of too: Liquid soap

Heat Wave Spells Death for ‘Backyard’ Dogs... 

Beating the Heat

Beating the summer’s oppressive heat is extra tough for dogs, because they can only cool themselves by panting and by sweating through their paw pads.Heatstroke can occur quickly and can result in brain damage or a gruesome death that’s often preceded by panic and seizures.

If you know of a backyard dog in your community, why not do what you can to make his or her life a little better? The following are some simple tips for helping backyard dogs in warm weather:

• Let the owners of these forgotten animals know that a dog’s needs for water and shade are especially urgent during the summer months.
• Ask them to give their dogs fresh water twice a day, or offer to do so for them.
• Urge them to let their dogs inside during heat waves, much like some owners do during spells of bitter-cold weather during the winter.
• If your dog isn’t allowed to be a part of your family, why not change that, starting today, by keeping him or her inside with the rest of your loved ones, at least while the weather is dangerous?

Signs of Overheating and How to Respond

Is Your Dog or Cats Afraid of Thunderstorms Or Fireworks?

Picture this: As the skies darken overhead, an otherwise amiable dog is panting and pacing around the house with his tail tucked between his legs. When the first crash of thunder hits, he bolts into the bathroom and curls up tightly in the tub, where he remains, panting and trembling, until the storm passes. Sound familiar? Does your dog behave this way during storms? Not to worry, pet parents, the ASPCA has some advice for helping your pooch overcome his fear.

Any dog can develop a fear of thunderstorms, but herding breeds seem more susceptible to developing noise phobias. Age is another risk factor: Dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms can become more distressed with each successive season, so it’s smart to start working with your dog as soon as you notice his fearful behavior. If your adult dog has suddenly become afraid of storms, please start with a visit to your vet. A sick dog may become more sensitive to sounds, and no amount of behavior modification will help if your dog’s fear is medically based.

Try the following strategies to reduce your dog’s anxiety during storms. For dogs with mild thunderstorm phobia, these tricks may get rid of the problem entirely.

• Let your dog take refuge inside. Storms aren’t as loud and scary with four walls around you! Bringing your dog into the house also ensures that he won’t try to escape from the yard.
• Having some human company often calms panicked dogs. If your calm, quiet touch brings him comfort or if he comes to you for security, it’s perfectly fine to pet and reassure him.
• Try turning on some calming music, a TV or radio, or a fan to muffle storm noises. Shutting the drapes may help if lightning also frightens your dog.
• More active distractions may help, too. See if your dog will eat from a food-filled toy, such as a stuffed Kong, scatter treats in the house for him to find, or try playing tug or fetch with his favorite toy.

If your dog’s quality of life is seriously impaired by thunderstorms, consider speaking with a vet about anti-anxiety medication. Medication can enhance the effectiveness of other efforts to help your dog cope with his fear. A technique called desensitization and counterconditioning can also help. This technique involves gradually increasing the volume of an audio recording of a thunderstorm to help your dog become accustomed to it, while at the same time associating the sound of thunder with good things, like treats and toys. Additionally, there are a number of products on the market that may help your dog remain calm during storms, including close-fitting body wraps, noise-reducing headphones and herbal remedies.

Help is just around the corner! Please visit the ASPCA’s Virtual Behaviorist for more advice and useful resources.

Thunderstorms can be very stressful for cats. Cats are connected to their surroundings through smell and sounds. They can sense a thunderstorm coming before we can even realize it. They are able to smell and hear something far better than what humans are capable of. Many cats are well aware of the danger of thunderstorms, thus become frightened when they know a thunderstorm is immenent.

Cats can become fearful when it is raining without the thunder. Some of them are afraid of the splashing sounds and instinctively take refuge for their safety. There are a few things you can do to reassure your furry friends that everything will be just fine.

o read more: http://lovemeow.com/2009/11/how-to-help-your-cats-cope-with-loud-thunder-and-fireworks/

Dogs Also Suffer from Allergies to Food, Pollen…and Cats!

VERY Dangerous dog toy by Four Paws Inc
Everyone needs to read this and forward to anyone you know with dogs. Also, be sure to read the snopes report after reading this guys story.

                               
If you don't have a dog, send it to your friends who do.
On Sunday, June 22, 2008 my 1 0-year old lab mix, Chai, sustained a severe injury from a product that the company Four Paws Inc, produces. The toy I'm referencing is the pimple ball with bell. (Item #20227-001, UPC Code 0 4566320227 9) While chewing on the toy, a vacuum was created and it effectively sucked his tongue into the hole in the ball. From speaking with my vet, this likely occurred because there is not a second hole in the ball preventing the vacuum effect from happening. I became aware of this when Chai approached a friend at my home whimpering with the ball in his mouth. She tried unsuccessfully to remove the ball but the tongue had swollen and could not be released.  Chai was taken to the Animal Medical Center (an emergency care facility in New York City ) and was treated by Dr. Nicole Spurlock to have the ball removed. Because the size of the opening on the ball was so small, all circulation to his tongue was cut off. The doctors had to sedate him in order to remove it. Once the ball was removed, his tongue swelled to the point that he could no longer put it in his mouth. This should never happen to another animal again!

http://fourpaws.com/
 

Importance of Brushing Your Dog or Cats Teeth.

       Dogs: Where to begin
Number one, this should be fun for you and your dog. Be upbeat and take things slowly. Do not overly restrain your dog. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your dog throughout the process. Give yourself a pat on the back, too! You are doing a great thing for your dog!

First, have your dog get used to you putting things in his mouth. Dip your finger in beef bouillon. Call your dog with a voice that means "treat" and let your dog lick the liquid off your finger. Then rub your soaked finger gently over your dog's gums and teeth. After a few sessions, your dog should actually look forward to this and you can move on. 

Now, place a gauze around your finger. (You can again dip it in the bouillon.) Gently rub the teeth in a circular motion with your gauzed finger. Repeat this for the number of sessions it takes your dog to feel comfortable with this procedure. Remember to praise him and keep an upbeat attitude.

After your dog is used to having the flavored gauze in his mouth, you are ready to start with a toothbrush, dental sponge, or pad. You need to get your dog used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your dog lick something tasty off of the brush or pad so he gets used to the texture.

Once your dog is used to the cleaning item you are going to use, You can add the toothpaste (or rinse). Pet toothpastes either have a poultry, malt, or other flavor so your dog will like the taste. Get your dog used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste. Let your dog lick some off your finger and then apply some to your pet's gum brushing line with your finger. Praise your pet.

Now your dog is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and you are ready to start brushing. Talk to your dog in a happy voice during the process and praise your dog at the end. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth (the large ones in the front of the mouth). These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. As before, when your dog accepts having several teeth brushed, slowly increase the number of teeth you are brushing. Again, by making it appear to be a game, you both will have fun doing it.

    Cats: Where to begin
Number one, this should be fun for you and your cat. Be upbeat and take things slowly. Do not overly restrain your cat. Keep sessions short and positive. Be sure to praise your cat throughout the process. Give yourself a pat on the back, too! You are doing a great thing for your cat!

1. First, have your cat get used to you putting things in her mouth. Dip your finger in tuna water, chicken broth, or other liquid your cat may like. Call your cat with a voice that means "treat" and let your cat lick the liquid off your finger. Then rub your soaked finger gently over your cat's gums and teeth. After a few sessions, your cat should actually look forward to this and you can move on.

2. Now, place a gauze around your finger. (You can again dip it in the tuna water or other liquid.) Gently rub the teeth in a circular motion with your gauzed finger. Repeat this for the number of sessions it takes your cat to feel comfortable with this procedure. Remember to praise her and keep an upbeat attitude.

3. After your cat is used to having the flavored gauze in her mouth, you are ready to start with a toothbrush, dental sponge, or pad. We need to get your cat used to the consistency of these items, especially the bristles on a brush. So, let your cat lick something tasty off of the brush or pad so she gets used to the texture.

4. Once your cat is used to the cleaning item you are going to use, you can add the toothpaste (or rinse). Pet toothpastes either have a poultry, malt, or other flavor so your cat will like the taste. Get your cat used to the flavor and consistency of the toothpaste. Let your cat lick some off your finger and then apply some to your cat's gumline with your finger. Praise your pet.

5. Now your cat is used to the toothbrush and toothpaste and you are ready to start brushing. Talk to your cat in a happy voice during the process and praise your cat at the end. At first, you may just want to brush one or both upper canine teeth (the large ones in the front of the mouth). These are the easiest teeth for you to get at and will give you some easier practice. As before, when your cat accepts having several teeth brushed, slowly increase the number of teeth you are brushing. Again, by making it appear to be a game, you both will have fun doing it.                                                              
   

6. If you'd like to read more: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?dept_id=0&siteid=12&acatid=280&aid=997

Secondhand Smoke, Nicotine Poisoning Health Threats to Pets

Dr. Carolynn MacAllister is an Oklahoma State University Cooperative Extension Service veterinarian. She says it makes sense that secondhand smoke would be harmful to dogs, cats and birds living with smokers. She said: "There have been a number of scientific papers recently that have reported the significant health threat secondhand smoke poses to pets. Secondhand smoke has been associated with oral cancer and lymphoma in cats, lung and nasal cancer in dogs, as well as lung cancer in birds."

In 1992, Dr. John Reif, a professor of epidemiology at Colorado State University (CSU) and the department chairman for environmental and radiological health sciences conducted a study entitled "Passive Smoking and Canine Lung Cancer Risk." In 1998, he lead a second similar study. According to Smoke Free Society, Dr. Reif said: "These studies are really the first to make us aware of secondhand smoke on animals. They are the first of their kind."

During the 1998 study, the researchers took into consideration the number of smokers in the home, how many cigarettes were smoked in the home each day, how much time the dog spent in the home, and the age, sex, size and skull shape of the dog. The study found that a dog exposed to secondhand smoke in the home is 1.6 times more likely to develop lung cancer than a dog that isn't exposed.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/366540/secondhand_smoke_nicotine_poisoning.html?cat=5

Pet Allergy FAQ

How many people are allergic to pets? According to the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, approximately 10 million people are allergic to cat dander, the most common pet allergen, and 15-30% of allergy sufferers have allergic reactions to either cats or dogs. Cat allergies are about two times as common as dog allergies. The Humane Society estimates that about two million Americans live with cats to which they're allergic. What causes pet allergy? It's the job of your immune system to fight off invaders like bacteria and viruses, but sometimes your immune system mistakes harmless proteins for a dangerous invaders. You experience allergy symptoms when your immune system becomes hypersensitive to harmless proteins – and when these proteins cause an allergic reaction, they are known as allergens. In the case of pet allergy, your immune system reacts to proteins found in pet dander (dead skin), saliva, and urine.
What are the symptoms of pet allergy? The allergic reaction causes a release of histamine and other chemicals in your body, which leads to allergy symptoms like itchy eyes, congestion, runny nose, rashes, wheezing, and sneezing. Cat dander can also trigger asthma attacks and lead to chronic asthma. What is animal dander? Animal dander is dead skin that flakes off in microscopic pieces. Note that animal fur or hair is not the primary cause allergies; however, the fur collects dander and other allergens like dust and pollen. What types of pets cause allergies? Allergens can come from any animal with fur or feathers, including cats, dogs, birds, hamsters, mice, gerbils, rats, guinea pigs, horses, goats, cows, chickens, ducks, and geese.
What types of pets do not cause allergies? Reptiles and fish do not cause allergies – because they have scales instead of skin. What are hypoallergenic pets? For years, certain breeds of cats and dogs have been promoted as "hypoallergenic," but in reality, their dander is just as allergenic as that of other breeds. However, short-haired dogs and cats carry less dander around with them, and pets that are groomed more frequently (such as most poodles) also carry less dander. Allerca, a lifestyle pet company, has genetically engineered the world's first scientifically-proven hypoallergenic cats.
Why do I have allergy symptoms when I'm nowhere near an animal? Cat and dog allergens are sticky and extremely light, and once they become airborne, they can float in the air for several hours before clinging to a surface. The allergens may stick to walls, shoes, clothing, bags, automobiles, animals – anything – and so it's not surprising that you can find pet allergen everywhere. Even months after a cat owner moves out of a house, potent cat allergen remains in the house. How do I know if I have a pet allergy? If you think you may have a pet allergy, an allergy doctor (also known as an allergist or immunologist) can diagnose the allergy and recommend options for allergy relief. Find allergist in your area with the "Find an Allergist" Search, courtesy of the American Academy of Allergy Asthma & Immunology.
Can I live with a pet to which I'm allergic? It's not always an easy task, but it is certainly possible. P. Cade McDonald founded achooallergy.com after researching allergy relief products that would allow him to spend time with his girlfriend Ali (now his wife) and her two cats, Max and Simba. (See our About Us page for more information about the history of achooallergy.com.) "I'm violently allergic to cats," says McDonald. "So we had to find solutions to basic problems like 'How are we going to have dinner together at her house?' That's when I started researching allergen avoidance, environmental control, and allergy relief products." How do I control my pet allergy? Of course the best way to control your pet allergy is to find a new home for your pet or keep it outdoors; however, these options are not always possible or desired. If you wish to keep your pet indoors, the key to avoiding allergy symptoms is allergen avoidance through environmental control. If you can keep your home and your air clean and free of animal dander, then you will experience allergy relief. Allergy Relief Bedding keeps pet dander, mold, dust mites and other allergens off your bed (and out of your breathing zone), where you spend about a third of your life. We recommend that you designate your bedroom as an allergy-free room and do not allow pets inside. See our article How to Allergy-Proof Your Bedroom for more information. Air Purifiers remove pet dander and other allergens and pollutants from the air. HEPA Vacuum Cleaners trap pet dander and other microscopic allergens in the HEPA filter. If you're not using a HEPA vacuum cleaner, then you're simply spewing allergens back into the air. The Dyson DC 17 Animal Vacuum Cleaner and the Dyson Root 6 Handheld Vacuum Cleaner are favorites among pet owners. For pet allergy sufferers, we recommend hard floors or low-pile carpeting whenever possible. Use an anti-allergen solution to denature (inactivate) allergens. Cat allergy sufferers should also wear a Dust Mask when vacuuming, as the act of vacuuming stirs up the dander. Air Filters for your furnace and vents will keep animal dander from recirculating into clean air. Anti-Allergenic Pet Shampoos & Cleansing Products will reduce your exposure to animal dander. We recommend that you wash your pet at least once a week. If you are highly allergic, have someone else wash your pet, brush your pet outside, and empty the litter box. Always wash your hands thoroughly after touching your pet. The Pet Brush Vacuum Attachment and other vacuum attachments such as the Eureka Power Paw are favorites among our customers who are allergic to pets. The Pet Hair Lifter is another popular item. Allersearch Allergen Wash removes pet dander and other allergens from laundry in any temperature water. If you have problems with pet odors and pet stains, try pet odor eliminators and pet stain removers. http://www.achooallergy.com/pet-allergy-faqs.asp

Cold Weather Tips

1.Keep your cat inside. Outdoors, felines can freeze, become lost or be stolen, injured or killed. Cats who are allowed to stray are exposed to infectious diseases, including rabies, from other cats, dogs and wild life.

1. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes sleep under the hoods of cars. When the motor is started, the cat can be injured or killed by the fan belt. If there are outdoor cats in your area, bang loudly on the car hood before starting the engine to give the cat a chance to escape.
   
   
2. Never let your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm—dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags.
   
   
3. Thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs and stomach when he comes in out of the sleet, snow or ice. He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws, and his paw pads may also bleed from snow or encrusted ice.
   
   
4. Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. When you bathe your dog in the colder months, be sure to completely dry him before taking him out for a walk. Own a short-haired breed? Consider getting him a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly. For many dogs, this is regulation winter wear.
   
   
5. Never leave your dog or cat alone in a car during cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death.
   
   
6. Puppies do not tolerate the cold as well as adult dogs, and may be difficult to housebreak during the winter. If your puppy appears to be sensitive to the weather, you may opt to paper-train him inside. If your dog is sensitive to the cold due to age, illness or breed type, take him outdoors only to relieve himself.
   
   
7. Does your dog spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities? Increase his supply of food, particularly protein, to keep him—and his fur—in tip-top shape.
   
   
8. Like coolant, antifreeze is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle, and consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol. Visit the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center more information.
   
   
9. Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, off the floor and away from all drafts. A cozy dog or cat bed with a warm blanket or pillow is perfect.

   "Old Dog" Does Not Mean Get Rid Of It

    "Old Cat" Does Not Mean Get Rid Of It

The Special Needs of the Senior Cat

Just as people are living longer than they did in the past, cats are living longer too. In fact, the percentage of cats over six years of age has nearly doubled in just over a decade, and there is every reason to expect that the "graying" cat population will continue to grow.

How can I help keep my senior cat healthy?
Close observation is one of the most important tools you have to help keep your senior cat healthy. You may wish to perform a mini-physical examination on a weekly basis. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do it and what to look for. You will find it easier if you just make the examination an extension of the way you normally interact with your cat. For example, while you are rubbing your cat's head or scratching its chin, gently raise the upper lips with your thumb or forefinger so you can examine the teeth and gums. In the same way, you can lift the ear flaps and examine the ear canals. While you are stroking your cat's fur, you can check for abnormal lumps or bumps, and evaluate the health of the skin and coat.

Cats are experts at hiding illness, and elderly cats are no exception. It is common for a cat to have a serious medical problem, yet not show any sign of it until the condition is quite advanced. Since most diseases can be managed more successfully when detected and treated early in their course, it is important for owners of senior cats to carefully monitor their behavior and health. 

To read more:

http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/seniorcat.html

Why Pets do not make good gifts. 

WE’RE just days into the New Year and already animal rescue centres across the region are inundated with unwanted pets. The four-legged friends shown here are just a handful of the abandoned animals — some of them dumped unceremoniously on the streets over Christmas — who want to find new homes in 2009. It has already been recognised that the North is one of the worst regions in the whole country for cruelty to animals, with RSPCA officers taking more than two people a week to court for mistreating their pets.

Think Before Giving

Adding an animal companion to the family is an important decision. It means making a permanent commitment to care for and spend time with the animal and to provide for his or her lifelong care.  Before adopting, consider the time and money involved in proper animal care. Will your loved one have the time and patience to exercise and house train the animal? Is he or she prepared to pay for food, accessories (such as toys, grooming supplies, leashes and harnesses, and bedding), inoculations, and veterinary care, including spaying or neutering, flea treatment, de worming, and emergency care?
If a family decides to adopt an animal, every member of the family should go to the local animal shelter together to choose the animal, having already discussed the obligations and long-term commitments involved. Please, never buy from breeders or pet stores, and always practice your ABCs—animal birth control. For every animal purchased from a breeder or a pet shop, a potential home is taken away from a homeless dog or a cat at a local animal shelter.

Children May Not Be Ready

Small children may unintentionally harm animals, even breaking their fragile bones or causing other fatal injuries, when they think they are playing. Puppies, kittens, bunnies, chicks, baby ducks, and other young animals are especially vulnerable.
We have heard too many stories about families in which the child has lost interest in an animal, and the adult is forced to make the difficult decision on the best way to "solve" the problem. Often this means turning the animal over to a crowded shelter or pound or—worse—passing the animal on to a series of homes, causing trauma, psychological scarring, and behavioral problems.

Too Few Happy Endings
Animal shelters are filled beyond capacity with homeless animals, many of whom were former "pets" who, for one reason or another, didn't fit into someone's lifestyle. No matter how much they would like to, many people who receive animals as gifts find that they are unable to make the lifelong commitment to care for their new companion. Sadly, many people end up turning animals they received as gifts over to an overburdened humane society or animal-control agency that is likely filled to capacity. In worst-case scenarios, some people even abandon animals on the road or in the back yard when they move away.

What You Can Do

Don't ever give an animal as a gift.  If you have discussed the idea with the prospective recipients and know that they have the time, willingness, ability, and resources to properly care for an animal and make that serious commitment, consider offering them a gift certificate from the local animal shelter. If you attend a fair, flea market, or other event at which animals are being given away, educate those who are responsible. If people are offering free kittens or puppies, for example, explain the risks of giving animals to unknown passersby—some people sell dogs and cats to laboratories or dealers, and others abuse, neglect, or abandon them. To read more:  http://www.peta.org/features/animals-do-not-make-good-gifts.aspx

This just came out....

Both known and unknown toxins can be found hiding in our houses and yards. In 2010, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) in Urbana, IL, fielded more than 167,000 phone calls about pets exposed to possibly poisonous substances. 

Human Medications
Human medications are once again at the top of the list of pet toxins for 2010. Almost 25 percent of our calls concerned human medications accidentally ingested by pets. The most common culprits include over-the-counter medications (ibuprofen, acetaminophen), antidepressants and ADHD medications. 

Rodenticides
Baits used to kill mice and rats are mostly grain based. Not only does this attract rodents, but it attracts dogs and cats. There are several different types of rodenticides that can cause seizures, internal bleeding or kidney failure. Always make sure these items are placed in areas that pets cannot access.

People Food
Xylitol, grapes, raisins, onions and garlic are commonly ingested by our pets. Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs, while onions and garlic can cause anemia if enough is ingested. Xylitol, a sugar alcohol used to sweeten sugar free gums and mints, can cause low blood sugar and liver failure in dogs. 

Chocolate
Chocolate contains methylxanthines, which act as stimulants to our pets. The darker the chocolate, the more methylxanthines it contains. Methylxanthines can cause agitation, vomiting, diarrhea, high heart rate, muscle tremors, seizures and death.

Senior Wellness As pets age, their bodies become less able to cope with physical or environmental stress. Since pets are very good at hiding signs of illness, health problems may seem to appear suddenly when, in fact, they have been gradually worsening over a period of months. That's a key reason why most experts recommend that healthy senior pets see their veterinarians every 6 months. When is a Pet "Senior"? With many pets living well into their teens, many owners wonder: When is my pet truly senior? The answer is that there is no specific age at which a pet becomes senior. Individual pets age at different rates, and most large- and giant-breed dogs become seniors earlier than small-breed dogs and cats.

Health Issues in Senior Pets
As your pet gets older, being aware of his or her general health can help you monitor for early signs of any problems. As pets age, their organ functioning changes, their immune systems become weaker, and they are more prone to developing certain diseases or conditions, including:

ALWAYS Call your vet if you have concerns.

External Parasites and Dogs: Flies/Fly-Strike

Here is an brief guide on fleas, mites, lice and flies that can cause harmful diseases in dogs.

Fleas: Fleas are common, but potentially dangerous, parasites. They are wingless jumpers that infest the skin and fur, though they do not usually live exclusively on dogs. They can be found in carpets, couches and other areas of home, leaving black and white eggs and feces on the skin, bed, furniture and rugs. They multiply extremely fast (adults can hatch a new set of nearly once a week) and will cause disease on anything they touch. Aside from carrying disease, they also cause allergies, raw skin, blood loss, and itching and hair loss. Fleas are difficult to remove from your pet at home, so prevention is the best course of action. A flea collar only protects the head and neck, while sprays, dips and powders treat the whole body. It is enough, however, to only treat the dog. Your entire home will need protection and cleaning. Vacuuming removes some, but not all, fleas and thorough washing will usually be needed on furniture and carpet. If the entire house is infested; a full-scale fumigation is usually called for. Although you can usually manage a flea infestation yourself, veterinary care is needed if the dog has an allergic reaction or shows signs of illness. The once-a-month flea preventive is an excellent,

Inexpensive means of controlling fleas on dogs.

Mites: Mites can live anywhere on the skin of dogs. Ear mites cause painful, swollen ears. There are easy to diagnose and treatment is virtually 100% effective. Generalized mite infections, like scabies and démodé tic mange, can be particular, serious and must be treated with correct medication, in the right form and for the proper amount of time.

Lice: The lice that infect dogs are the same lice that attack people. These small, light-colored parasites live on the skin and fur. There they nest eggs and gain nourishment. A vigorous bath with insecticide will remove them. People in contact with the dog should also be treated for infection.

Flies: Flies and fly bites can create itching and sore skin. Worse, flies can lay eggs and create maggots, which feed on flesh (especially wounds or in the ears). To prevent these problems, clean all cuts and wounds cut away matted fur areas and use an insect repellent when you travel into outdoor areas that have high insect populations.

Most flea, mite, lice and fly infestations can be treated without damage to your dog. Do not delay treatment, however, since easy problems can become worse quirky.

How to Solve Kitty’s Destructive Scratching

As all cat lovers know, our feline friends love to use their claws in all sorts of interesting ways. As part of their daily rituals, cats instinctually pull the claws on their front paws through surfaces that offer resistance. Cats who live outdoors favor logs and tree trunks for this purpose. Unfortunately, in a domestic setting, this instinct often translates to scaling the drapes or reupholstering a nubby sofa.

So what do you do if Fluffy is determined to redecorate your house in the latest version of feline-scratch chic? First, what not to do: Please do not declaw your pet. The term “declaw” is a misnomer, as it implies the removal of a cat’s claws only. In reality, declawing involves amputating the end of a cat’s toes, and is comparable to removing your own fingernails as well as the bones to which they are attached. Ouch!! Declawing surgery also includes many risks, and is accompanied by severe pain.

The ASPCA is strongly opposed to declawing—and other elective surgeries such as debarking dogs—for the convenience of pet parents. One effective way to treat your cat’s penchant for destructive scratching is to provide her with appropriate surfaces and objects to scratch, such as scratching posts made of cardboard, carpeting, wood, sisal or upholstery. Check out these other helpful tips from our behaviorists:

• Encourage your cat to investigate posts by scenting them with catnip.
• Discourage inappropriate scratching by removing or covering attractive objects.
• Clip your cat’s nails regularly.
• If you catch your cat in the act of scratching an inappropriate object, try startling him by clapping your hands or squirting him with water. (Use this procedure only as a last resort, because your cat may associate you with the startling event and learn to fear you.)

For more information about helping your pet overcome destructive scratching, please visit our Virtual Behaviorist.

 Source: http://www.aspca.org/News/National/National-News-Detail.aspx?NDate=20110304&NType=National#News1

Ways to Liven up Your Dog’s Dinner using people food...

 Help Your Cat Overcome Hairballs With Natural Solutions

                      

Cat lovers know the sound–that hacking, coughing, retching noise that means Fluffy is about to heave up a hairball. For many kitty caretakers, this purging ritual is simply a necessary evil of having cats. But it needn’t be. With a few simple changes to your cat’s diet and lifestyle, you can minimize or even prevent Fluffy’s hairballs. Hairballs develop when cats lick themselves as part of their grooming ritual. According to Carol Osborne, DVM, with the American Pet Institute in Chagrin Falls, Ohio, and author of Dr. Carol’s Naturally Healthy Cats (Marshall Editors, 2006), most of the hair passes through the cat’s digestive tract and ends up as part of its litter box offerings. But some of that hair can also mix with mucus, causing a gooey ball too big to exit a cat’s body through the back door. Either Fluffy coughs it up, or–in the worst-case scenario–the hairball continues to grow and eventually obstructs his intestines. Conventional hairball remedies contain petroleum jelly, which lubes up the whole hairy mess and helps it pass through a cat’s digestive system. But Osborne says petroleum-based products can keep a cat from absorbing vital nutrients, particularly the fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K.

Natural pet care experts prefer the following ways to prevent hairballs:

• Brush your cat every day with a wire bristle brush to remove excess hair.

• Feed your cat a balanced diet. Osborne prefers a raw diet of meat products mixed with veggies and fresh greens for fiber; you can find some recipes at holisticat.com. If you do buy prepared cat food, Osborne suggests looking for one with natural or organic meat. According to a 2003 study conducted by scientists from the University of Wisconsin and Nestlé Purina, hairballs consist of 15 to 30 percent fat, and lecithin can effectively break up that fat–and the hairball. However, Sandy Arora, founder of holisticat.com and coauthor of Whole Health for Happy Cats (Quarry Books, 2006), says most lecithin is made from soy, which can cause thyroid problems in cats. She gives her Persians lecithin from egg yolks.

• Increase fiber and help move the hair down and out by mixing a teaspoon of pumpkin, pureed prunes, or baby food vegetables into his food. If Fluffy turns up his nose at these offerings, Osborne advises soaking them in juice from tuna packed in water.

• For a homemade fiber booster, Osborne recommends adding a teaspoon per meal of a gel made from 1/4 cup of psyllium husks mixed with 3/4 cup of hot water. Or try a teaspoon of slippery elm mixed with 1/2 cup of cold water (simmer until it thickens).

• Try the homeopathic digestive remedy nux vomica. Osborne recommends one pellet every four hours for up to five days.

• And don’t forget regular visits to your vet. “A healthy cat on a good, balanced, natural diet should really only have an issue with hairballs a few times a year at most,” Osborne says.

This information is a reference by Melissa Breyer of Care2.

Treating Burns on Doggies...   My dog always comes to greet us when we get home from motorcycle rides, so I try to watch for of those hot pipes. She knows how to sit till she is asked to move. But just in case "heaven forbid"...

There are OTC ( over the counter) drugs that are safe for your pet and others that will harm permanently or kill.

The Georgia Shih Tzu An Arizona Breeder

Before I explain anything else please remember that any OTC (over the counter) drugs can harm your dog. Most drugs acceptable for dogs will still harm a cat. They should be administered in smaller weight doses than children and no more than one or twice daily.
There are OTC drugs that are safe for your pet and others that will harm permanently or kill. Acceptable medications include, Benedryl, Aspirin, Pepto Bismol, Pedialyte (not really a medication), Pepcid AC, ChlorTrimeton, Dramamine, Tagamet, Saline sprays and Little Noses, Vaporizers, Antibiotic Ointments, Gas X, Beano, Hydrogen Peroxide, Robitussin DM, and Hydrocortisones. Safe dosage amounts are below. Please be extra careful to read the active ingredients before giving to your pet. Any other drugs I have not listed can cause serious damage so stay away from combination drugs! Stay away from Tylenol, Motrin and Ibuprofen, they will cause serious harm to your dog and cat that can result in death.

Aspirin- Pain & swelling- only safe for dogs; should be administered at 5 mg per pound no more than twice a day.
Benedryl- Allergies- only safe for dogs; 1-3 mg per pound is enough to relieve symptoms; no more than twice a day.
Chlortrimeton- Allergies- safe for dogs and cats; 2 mg per 10 lbs of weight 2-3 times daily per dog and half the dosage per cat.
Antibiotic Ointments & Hydrocortisone- Cuts, abrasions & skin irritations- safe for dogs and cats; applied as much and as often as necessary, external use only.
Pedialyte- Dehydration- safe for dogs and cats; give as much and as often as needed to rehydrate from vomiting and diarrhea.
Pepto Bismol- Nausea- only safe for dogs; 1 tsp per 20 lbs of weight every 4-6 hours.
Pepcid AC- Nausea- safe for dogs and cats; 1 mg per 4 lbs of weight 1-2 times daily.
Tagamet- Ulcer & stomach acid- safe for dogs and cats; 1 mg per 4 lbs of weight 1-2 times daily.
Dramamine- Motion sickness & calming- safe for dogs and cats; 12 mg /small dogs and cats; 25 mg /medium dogs and 50 mg /large dogs one hour before traveling.
Gas X & Beano- Flatulence- safe for dogs and cats; 30 mg /small dogs and cats, 60 mg /medium dogs, 125 mg /large dogs once daily. If you suspect your dog of bloat give a double dosage of Gas X and run to the vet.
Vaporizers- Colds & kennel cough- use as often and as long as necessary, external use only.
Glucosamine with/without Chondroitin sulfate- Joint pain & arthritis- safe for dogs and cats; 500 mg /cats and small dogs, 1000 mg /medium dogs and 1500 mg /large dogs.
Hydrogen Peroxide- Induce vomiting- safe for dogs and cats; 1-10 tsp, per size, given orally once. Do not repeat if not effective and not effective for cleaning wounds.
Little Noses & Saline sprays- Sinus infections and dry nasal cavities- safe for dogs and cats; can be used as often as needed or recommended on bottle.
Robitussin DM- Coughing- safe for dogs and cats; .5 ml every 8 hours. Only the DM product!!
Olive Oil- Constipation- safe for dogs and cats; .5 ml 1-3lbs, 1ml per 3-10 lbs.

Always be very careful before you give your pet a drug. They can have serious side effects that are irreversible and can result in death. Do not give more than one drug to your dog without consulting your vet.  There are other topics offered as well such as: Refusing to walk or use a limb, Bald patches, rashes, irritations & scratching, Infections, Breathing problems, Stomach problems and food and more...

To read more:  http://www.gashihtzu.com/pain.html

Beware of Raisins and grapes causing acute Renal failure.

This week I had the first case in history of raisin toxicity ever seen at MedVet. My patient was a 56-pound, 5 yr old male neutered lab mix that ate half a canister of raisins sometime between 7:30 AM and 4:30 PM on Tuesday.  He started with vomiting, diarrhea and shaking about 1 AM on Wednesday but the owner didn't call my emergency service until 7 AM.
I had heard somewhere about raisins AND grapes causing acute Renal failure but hadn't seen any formal paper on the subject. We had her bring the dog in immediately. In the meantime, I called the ER service at MedVet, and the doctor there was like me - had heard something about it, but... Anyway, we contacted the ASPCA National Animal Poison
Control   Center and they said  to give IV fluids at 1 & 1/2 times maintenance and watch the kidney values for the next 48-72 hours. The dog's BUN (blood urea nitrogen level) was already at 32 (normal less than 27) and creatinine over 5 (1.9 is the high end of normal). Both are monitors of kidney function in the bloodstream. We placed an IV catheter and started the fluids. Rechecked the renal values at 5 PM and the BUN was over 40 and creatinine over 7 with no urine production after a liter of fluids.  At that point I felt the dog was in acute renal failure and sent him on to MedVet for a urinary catheter to monitor urine output overnight as well as overnight care. He started vomiting again overnight at MedVet and his renal values continued to increase daily. He produced urine when given lasix as a diuretic. He was on 3 different anti-vomiting medications and they still couldn't control his vomiting. Today his urine output decreased again, his BUN was over 120, his creatinine was at 10, his phosphorus was very elevated and his blood pressure, which had been staying around 150, skyrocketed to 220 ... He continued to vomit and the owners elected to Euthanize.

This is a very sad case - great dog, great owners who had no idea raisins could be a toxin. Please alert everyone you know who has a dog of this very serious risk. Poison control said as few as 7 raisins or grapes could be toxic. Many people I know give their dogs grapes or raisins as treats including our ex-handler's. Any exposure should give rise to immediate concern. Onions, chocolate, cocoa, avocados and macadamia nuts can be fatal, too.  Written by: Laurinda Morris, DVM Danville  Veterinary Clinic Danville,  OH

Does Lead in Toys Pose a Danger to Pets?

Whether your pet prefers squeaky rubber squirrels, stiff rawhide bones or fuzzy mice, he or she undoubtedly loves to play with toys. But is the source of your dog's or cat’s merriment safe? Many common household products—including toys for children and pets—may contain trace amounts of lead and other toxins. In most cases, however, the levels of these ingredients in toys don’t pose a significant threat to your furry friend.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) reviewed 200,000 cases from the past two years and produced no examples of lead poisoning from pet toys. According to Dr. Sharon Gwaltney-Brant, ASPCA Vice President and Medical Director of the APCC, younger dogs, just like children, are especially vulnerable to lead poisoning, but most studies reveal only tiny amounts of lead in pet toys—not a grave risk for acute or chronic lead poisoning in dogs. “Just because it's 'detectable' doesn't necessarily make it hazardous,” says Dr. Gwaltney-Brant. “Even oxygen is toxic at the right concentration.” And what about other types of treats such as rawhide bones? Like pet toys, rawhide chews can include trace amounts of pesky chemicals. Dr. Safdar Khan, Director of Toxicology at the ASPCA, believes many dog lovers would be surprised if they learned the true contents of their pets’ treats. But he also adds that pet parents would likely be surprised if they knew the complete ingredients of what they eat and drink, too.

The reality is that a dog is much more likely to suffer obstruction from a rawhide bone than poisoning from a hidden toxin. In general, the smaller the dog, the fewer rawhide treats he should receive, and only give your pet raw hides under a watchful eye. Remember, it’s always wise to supervise! And lest you think we’re leaving out our feline fans, here are a few safety tips to keep in mind when shopping for kitty’s favorite play things:

• The wand toy, often adorned with feathers, string or small stuffed toys, is ubiquitous. But take care with it, and watch for pieces of string or other components that might fall from the toy and get swallowed by your cat.
• Another popular treat for the kitty set is catnip. Word to the wise—some cats become very excited when smelling or eating it, so be careful about petting your cat until you know how she will respond.
• Please don’t let your cat play with rubber bands, paper clips or plastic bags. All can prove dangerous and a choking risk to our feline friends.

For more information about playing it safe with your pet, please visit APCC online.

  Animal allergy prevention and control.

The Allergy Relief Center - Your BEST resource for allergy relief products.

• Controlling animal allergies.

• Tips for less severe reactions to animal dander.

• Reduce exposure to other allergens.

• Animal allergy treatment.

• Quality allergy reduction products from The Allergy Relief Center.

The Allergy Relief Center offers high-quality, physician-recommended products for animal dander allergy prevention and control. The Allergy Relief Center is dedicated to providing the finest pet allergy relief and control products, plus the Allerpet product line of cat dander and dog dander removers.  We offer the Allerpet pet allergy reduction products at competitive prices, together with superior customer service.

Of the many animal allergies, dog and cat allergies are the most prevalent, although many allergy sufferers react to birds, horses, cows and pigs. It is not the cat or dog hair itself that causes the allergy, but the old skin cells (dander) that are constantly being shed. Allergic individuals may produce allergy antibodies (IgE) when exposed to a protein found in cat hair roots and cats' salivary glands. The allergy antibodies cause mast cells to release histamine, exploding "allergy bombs" in the body. 

A major problem for those genetically predisposed to allergies occurs when cat dander or dog dander becomes airborne. Inhaling animal dander may cause allergic reactions, including sneezing, watery and itching eyes, hives, coughing and constricting of bronchial tubes, making breathing difficult.

You may react with pet allergy symptoms to one cat and not another. Long-haired cats and dogs do not necessarily produce more animal dander than short-haired pets. Individual pets produce individual amounts of animal dander.

 To read more: http://www.theallergyreliefcenter.com/animal_allergy.htm

Purchasing Pet Drugs Online: Buyer Beware

"Discount pet drugs—no prescription required" may appeal to pet owners surfing the Web, but FDA experts say it can be risky to buy drugs online from sites that tout this message and others like it.

Some of the Internet sites that sell pet drugs represent legitimate, reputable pharmacies, says Martine Hartogensis, D.V.M., deputy director of the Office of Surveillance and Compliance in FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM). But others are fronts for unscrupulous businesses operating against the law.

FDA has found companies that sell unapproved pet drugs and counterfeit pet products, make fraudulent claims, dispense prescription drugs without requiring a prescription, and sell expired drugs.

Pet owners who purchase drugs from these companies may think they are saving money, says Hartogensis, but in reality, they may be short-changing their pet's health and putting its life at risk.

CVM regulates the manufacture and distribution of animal drugs, while individual state pharmacy boards regulate the dispensing of prescription veterinary products.

Red Flags

Some foreign Internet pharmacies advertise that veterinary prescription drugs are available to U.S. citizens without a prescription. But, says Hartogensis, "There is a risk of the drugs not being FDA-approved."

A foreign or domestic pharmacy may claim that one of its veterinarians on staff will "evaluate" the pet after looking over a form filled out by the pet owner, and then prescribe the drug. "A veterinarian should physically examine an animal prior to making a diagnosis to determine the appropriate therapy," says Hartogensis.

CVM is especially concerned that pet owners are going online to buy two types of commonly used prescription veterinary drugs—nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and heartworm preventives.

"Both drugs can be dangerous if there is no professional involvement," says Hartogensis. "It's not generally a concern if the owner uses a legitimate online pharmacy and mails in a prescription from their veterinarian, who is monitoring the animal. But if there is no veterinarian–client–patient relationship, it's a dangerous practice."

NSAIDS and Heartworm Preventives

Veterinarians often prescribe NSAIDs to relieve pain in dogs. NSAIDs should not be purchased on the Internet without a veterinarian's involvement because

• dogs should undergo blood testing and a thorough physical examination before starting NSAIDs
• dogs should be monitored by a veterinarian while they are taking NSAIDs
• veterinarians should discuss possible side effects of NSAIDs with the owner
• the prescription should be accompanied by a Client Information Sheet that explains important safety information to the owner

Heartworm disease is a potentially fatal condition transmitted by the bite of a mosquito that is carrying infected larvae of the heartworm parasite. Dogs, cats, and ferrets can get heartworm. Heartworm preventives, given daily, monthly, or semiannually, depending on the product, kill the larvae before they become adult worms.

The American Heartworm Society recommends

• using heartworm medication for dogs year-round, no matter where you live in the United States
• getting dogs tested yearly to make sure they're not infected with heartworm

"Testing is important even in dogs regularly treated with heartworm preventive products due to the occasional reports of product ineffectiveness," says Hartogensis. An Internet pharmacy veterinarian cannot draw blood from the animal to perform the test. If the test isn't done, a pet owner could be giving heartworm preventives to a dog that has heartworms, potentially leading to severe reactions.

Tips for Buying Pet Drugs Online

• Order from a Web site that belongs to a Vet-VIPPS accredited pharmacy. Vet-VIPPS—the Veterinary-Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice Sites—is a voluntary accreditation program of the National Association of Boards of Pharmacy (NABP). NABP gives the Vet-VIPPS seal to online pharmacies that dispense prescription animal drugs and comply with NABP's strict criteria, including federal and state licensing and inspection requirements, protecting patient confidentiality, quality assurance, and validity of prescription orders. Look for the Vet-VIPPS seal displayed on a pharmacy's Web site or check with NABP⁵ (click on "Accreditation Programs") to find out if a pharmacy is Vet-VIPPS accredited. Because this is a new program, begun in 2009, a small number of pharmacies are currently Vet-VIPPS accredited.
• Order from an outsourced prescription management service that your veterinarian uses. These state-licensed Internet pharmacy services work directly with the veterinarian, require that a prescription be written by the veterinarian, and support the veterinarian-client-patient relationship. Ask your veterinary hospital if it uses an Internet pharmacy service.

This article appears on FDA's Consumer Health Information Web page⁶, which features the latest on all FDA-regulated products.

Safety Tips for Hiking with Your Dog

Use Proper Leashes:  Extending leashes are great for wide open spaces, but if your romp is taking you through wooded areas, it’s best to leave the flexi-leads at home. Otherwise, you’ll probably spend more time untangling your dog’s leash from trees and brush than you will enjoying your walk!

Drink Plenty of Fluids: Both you and your pooch need to stay hydrated, so bring enough water for two. Don’t allow your pup to drink from puddles, ponds, lakes or streams—they may contain parasites or toxins that could cause harm.

IDs Please: Whether you’re using a leash or not, don’t forget IDs, please! Always make sure that your current contact information, including your cell phone number, is attached to your dog’s collar or body harness. If for any reason your pet gets lost, a collar and tags and a microchip will increase the likelihood that he or she will be returned to you.

Keep Vaccinations Up-to-Date: You never know what you may encounter on a hike—so before setting out into the wilderness, check your pet’s veterinary records and make sure his vaccinations are up-to-date.

Read our complete list of hiking safety tips!

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/hiking-safety-tips.html

Can I be infected with HIV or AIDS through contact with animals such as dogs and cats?

No. HIV is a Human Immunodeficiency Virus. It only affects humans. There are some other types of immunodeficiency viruses that specifically affect cats and other primates, namely the Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Simian Immunodeficiency Virus (SIV). These viruses are of no risk to humans. Some people have expressed concern that they could become infected if scratched by an animal that has previously scratched an HIV positive person. This is exceptionally unlikely, and there are no documented cases of transmission occurring in this way. http://www.avert.org/faq1.htm

Diseases from Animals

Important Tip! Many germs can be passed to people from dog bites. Learn more about how to prevent dog bites from the Humane Society of the United States.

Dogs: Some people are more likely than others to get diseases from dogs. A person's age and health status may affect his or her immune system, increasing the chances of getting sick. People who are more likely to get diseases from dogs include infants, children younger than 5 years old, organ transplant patients, people with HIV/AIDS, and people being treated for cancer. Special advice is available for people who are at greater risk than others of getting diseases from animals.

Below, you can learn more about dog-related diseases. These are just a few for Dogs:

Brucella canis Infection (brucellosis): A bacterial disease rarely associated with dogs. Campylobacter Infection (campylobacteriosis): A bacterial disease associated with dogs, cats, and farm animals. Cryptosporidium Infection (cryptosporidiosis): A parasitic disease associated with dogs, especially puppies, cats, and farm animals. Dipylidium Infection (tapeworm): A parasitic disease associated with dogs, cats and fleas. Giardia Infection (giardiasis): A parasitic disease associated with various animals, including dogs and their environment (including water). Hookworm Infection: A parasitic disease associated with dogs and cats and their environment. Leishmania Infection (leishmaniasis): A parasitic disease associated with dogs and sand flies outside the United States. Leptospira Infection (leptospirosis): A bacterial disease associated with wild and domestic animals, including dogs. Lyme Disease: A bacterial disease that can affect dogs and ticks.

Diseases from Cats: Although cats can carry diseases and pass them to people, you are not likely to get sick from touching or owning a cat. By following simple health tips, you can be even safe-against cat-related diseases.

Important Fact! People are probably more likely to get toxoplasmosis from gardening or eating raw meat than from having a pet cat. Special tips are available for pregnant women.

Some cat-related diseases that make people sick are common, such as cat scratch disease (or cat scratch fever), and others such as plague (play-g), are rare. Toxoplasmosis (TOX-o-plaz-MO-sis) is a disease that can come from cats, but people are more likely to get it from eating raw meat or from gardening. Cats can also carry rabies, a deadly viral disease.

Some people are more likely than others to get diseases from cats. A person's age and health status may affect his or her immune system, increasing the chances of getting sick. People who are more likely to get diseases from cats include infants, children younger than 5 years old, organ transplant patients, people with HIV/AIDS, and people being treated for cancer. Special advice is available for people who are at greater risk than others of getting diseases from animals.

Learn more about selected cat-related diseases below. These are just a few:

Cat Scratch Disease (Bartonella henselae): A bacterial disease associated with cat scratches and bites. Coxiella burnetti Infection (Q fever): A bacterial disease occasionally associated with cats. Cryptosporidium Infection (cryptosporidiosis): A parasitic disease associated with cats, dogs, and farm animals. Dipylidium Infection (tapeworm): A parasitic disease associated with cats, dogs and fleas. Hookworm Infection: A parasitic disease associated with cats, dogs and their environment. Leptospira Infection (leptospirosis): A bacterial disease associated wild and domestic animals including cats. Plague (Yersinia pestis) Infection: A rare bacterial disease associated with rodents and cats and fleas. Q Fever (Coxiella burnetii): A bacterial disease occasionally associated with cats. Rabies: A viral disease associated with various animals, including cats. Ringworm: A fungal disease associated various animals, including with cats.

Can animals have ADHD or be retarded?

Yes to both. 

Animal ADHD (Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder).

These are formulas for homemade Puppy and Kitten Milk

Home made Puppy milk:

There are a number of different reasons that a puppy might find itself orphaned or "excluded" from the litter. If you have an orphaned or rejected puppy, it's important to know how to take care of it. Give the pup a warm, dry bed, check with a vet about cleaning it and feed it a milk replacer. Puppies drink milk until they're four to five weeks old.
Things You'll Need:

    * Pet nursing bottles
    * Homemade milk replacer (evaporated milk and water/goat milk, egg yolks, plain yogurt, Karo syrup/corn oil, pediatric multivitamin)

Step 1: Mix the formula according to the label, or buy supplies and mix your own. Most pet stores and vet offices have powdered formula to replace puppy milk. For the homemade recipe, mix one-half cup of evaporated milk with one cup of boiling water, one teaspoon of corn oil or Karo syrup, one drop of pediatric multivitamin, two raw egg yolks and one tablespoon of whole plain yogurt. Heat to room temperature. If you don't want to use evaporated milk, substitute goat's milk and cut out the water.
  
2. Put your mixture into a puppy bottle. Shake the bottle vigorously to mix the formula, and make sure that only a couple of drops of milk come out the nipple at once. Too much milk will choke the puppy.

3. Insert the nipple of the bottle into the puppy's mouth, using your fingers to pry its mouth open. Squeeze the bottle to push a couple of drops of formula into the pup's mouth. This should get the puppy sucking on its own. 

4. Use a syringe to feed the puppy if it's weak. Fill the syringe with the formula, gently pry open the puppy's mouth and squeeze the formula in. Close the puppy's mouth on the formula. Once it swallows, repeat the process.

5. Feed small, frequent amounts rather than overfeeding the puppy.
http://www.ehow.com/how_5465904_make-puppy-milk-replacer.html

Homemade Kitten Milk:  You can use this kitten milk substitute to successfully hand-rear baby felines

There are a number of different reasons that a kitten might find itself orphaned or "excluded" from the litter. If you have an orphaned or rejected kitten, it's important to know how to take care of it.

13 ounces unflavored Pedialyte
12 ounces goat milk
8 ounces plain live culture yogurt
2-1/2 ounces lamb baby food
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons Karo white corn syrup

Put all ingredients into a blender and mix well. Put kitten milk into Nurse-Maid pet nursing bottle (found at Wal-Mart) and heat to lukewarm. Test on the inside of your wrist. Be sure to stir the milk in the container each time before you refill the bottle. Put remaining kitten milk into 8 ounce containers and freeze until needed. Two-week-old kittens will drink about 1/2 ounce every 4 hours. Four-week-old kittens will drink about 1 to 1-1/2 ounces every five hours.

Orphaned Kitten Formula
Keep this kitten milk recipe handy for feeding orphaned kittens in an emergency
1 can  goat's milk
1 cup Pedialyte (or generic equivalent, unflavored)
1 egg yolk
1 packet unflavored gelatin
1/2 teaspoon liquid infant vitamins

Blend together. Heat small amounts in microwave to "wrist comfortable" temperature immediately before administering. Store leftovers in refrigerator no longer than 72 hours. Blend before serving each time.

To administer kitten milk, use a syringe without needle or use a kitten feeding bottle. Start with small amounts and work up gradually as kitten grows. Administer kitten milk once every two hours during first two weeks, every three during third week, every four during fourth week. During fourth week, start blending a small can of high quality ground kitten food into the mixture. Note: Never feed a kitten cow's milk or human baby formula as this causes stomach upset and severe diarrhea. If a kitten is already dehydrated, this could prove fatal. This includes condensed/evaporated canned cow's milk!
http://www.easy-homemade-recipes.com/kitten-milk.html

Delivering Puppies:

Try not to worry - over ninety-eight percent of all dogs deliver their puppies without assistance or complications. But when it's your pet that is set to deliver puppies it is comforting to know that things are proceeding without hitches and on schedule. Here are some of the things that should happen as your dog begins to deliver her puppies.

Just Before Labor Begins:

Pregnancy in dogs last approximately 63 days (56-69 days). Toy breeds may deliver a week earlier while large breeds often deliver later. Two weeks before your dog’s due date, begin to take its temperature at noon. Purchase a rectal or oral thermometer but use it rectally. You can lubricate it with margarine or KY jelly and insert it about an inch. Leave it in place for three minutes. Your dog’s temperature should be between 101 and 102.5 Fahrenheit. When the pet’s temperature drops below 100F she should deliver the pups in less than twenty-four hours.

Stage One of Labor:

During the first stage of labor the cervix begins to dilate and uterine contractions begin. These contractions are painful and perplexing to the dog. She will appear quite uncomfortable and restless - pacing, shivering and panting. She probably will not eat and she may even vomit. Some dogs whine persistently. Others occupy themselves building a nest. Uterine contractions, although occurring, are not as easy to see as in humans. This is the longest stage of labor. It generally lasts six to eighteen hours. By the end of this period the dog’s cervix will have completely dilated for the puppies to pass. During this period keep the mother’s environment quiet and calm. I usually shut them off in a darkened area such as the bathroom.

Stage Two of Labor:

During the second stage of labor, uterine contractions begin in force. As this stage progresses the placental water sacks break and a straw-colored fluid is passed. Placentas are expelled after each puppy or sporadically during labor. Pups usually appear every half-hour or so after ten to thirty minutes of forceful straining. As the pups deliver, the mother will lick the puppy clean and bite off the umbilical cord. It is important to let the mother do this, if she will, because through this process she bonds with her puppies and learns to recognize them as her own. The rough licking of the mother stimulates the puppies to breathe and improves their circulation. The mother will probably eat some of the afterbirths. If the bitch does not tear away the sac and lick the pups to stimulate respiration, the owner should tear the sac open, clear all fluid away from the pup's nose and mouth, and vigorously rub the pup to stimulate breathing.

It is not uncommon, however, for the mother to take rests during labor and up to four hours can pass between some puppies. If more than four hours have passed without a puppy and you are certain more puppies are present take the dog to a veterinary hospital. Also seek assistance if the mother strains forcefully for over an hour without producing another pup. If you see the rear legs of a puppy protruding from the dog’s vagina you can assist the mother by gently pulling the puppy in a downward and rearward arcing motion. You must do this very gently because puppies are fragile and easily hurt. It is normal for many puppies to be born rear feet first or breach. When a mother dog is stuck in incomplete labor the first thing I do is administer oxytocin and calcium to stimulate uterine contractions. If the puppies are too big to pass through the birth canal or the oxytocin fails to induce successful labor, I perform a cesarean section on the dog.

Stage Three of Labor:

The concept of a third stage of labor is borrowed from human labor terms. It is a very indistinct period in dogs. Once all the puppies have been born the dog enters this third stage of labor during which time the uterus contracts fully, expelling any remaining placenta, blood and fluid.

Midwifery:

After thirty-two days of pregnancy the mother’s appetite will begin to increase. She should begin to eat about twice as much as she used to. When the puppies come and she is producing milk, her food consumption should be about three times as much as it was before her pregnancy.
Purchase a name brand puppy chow to feed her with during these periods. If you do so, there is no need to give her supplements of any kind. There is no need to restrict the mother’s normal exercise but intensive exercise or work training should be curtailed.

Around the forty-fifth day, bring the pet in to be examined by a veterinarian. At this time the vet
will be able to palpate the puppies and give you an indication of how many to expect. If you need to know earlier, then have an ultrasound examination performed about the twenty-fifth day.
Blood progesterone levels can be tested about day 34 to confirm pregnancy.

Delivering Kittens:

What Should I Expect During Delivery?

Twenty-four to forty-eight hours before labor begins, your cat will seem more anxious and restless. It will often poke its head about looking for a place to nest and have the litter. But this behavior sometimes occurs early as three days before they actually deliver. At this point confine her to the room you want her to give birth in. It should be a darkened room with an impervious floor in a quiet area of the house that is not too cold or hot. Place food and water in the room and let her get used to it.

Cats that are about to go into labor will usually lick their abdomen and vagina persistently. There is often a discharge that precedes birthing, but the mother will lick it away as rapidly as it appears. Her cervix will be dilating but no outward signs accompany this. Do not attempt to poke your finger in her.

She will loose all interest in food and become serious and attentive to only her licking. If you are perceptive, you may notice an increase in her breathing rate. It is quite common for the mother to sit with her mouth open and yowl loudly or pace the room. As her labor progresses and uterine contractions begin, pregnant cats will lay on their sides and intermittently squat and press downward to expel the kittens. Do not interrupt or disturb the mother during these periods – just watch from a door left ajar.

How Long Should I Wait?

The first kitten should arrive within an hour after the onset of labor. Sometimes labor lasts only a few minutes before the kitten arrives. Other kittens should arrive with an interval of ten minutes to an hour between them.

Each kitten arrives wrapped in a jelly-like membrane filled with clear fluid – the amniotic sac. Good mothers immediately begin licking the kitten forcefully, which shreds this sac allowing the kitten to breathe. This licking stimulates the kittens circulation and respiration.

In the exceptionally rare case where the mother does not free the kitten’s mouth from the obstructing membrane, you should do it for her and follow this with a vigorous rubbing of the kitten in a soft towel to dry it and stimulate it to breath. Kittens are delicate - so don't over-do the rubbing.

The mother will also chew off the umbilical cord at this time. If she forgets to do this to one or more of the kittens, you can tie off the cord with a length of dental floss or string and snip the cord about an inch long. It is important to let the mother do these things herself if she is willing because through licking and mothering the kitten she bonds with it and recognizes it as her infant. It also helps her to let down her milk.

The mother cat will probably begin nursing the kitten before the next littermates arrives. If she doesn't, place the kitten on one of her nipples. The nursing will stimulate her uterus to contract further so you may seen a bloody or greenish discharge at her vagina. She may eat a few of the afterbirths. There is no problem with that.

It usually takes two to six hours for the entire litter to be delivered. If labor persists beyond seven hours it is wise to take the mother and the kittens to a veterinarian. While she is delivering keep her area quiet, calm and dimly lit. Don’t become involved in the birthing unless you are certain that you are needed. Once the last kitten has been delivered you can quietly clean up the mess she has left behind. Place a fresh bowel of water and some cat food beside her because mother cats don’t like to leave their kittens for the first day or two.

What Will I See?

She should spend about 70% of her time nursing the kittens. Remember to keep a comfortable temperature in the room – kittens can not regulate their body temperatures during their first six days. In a normal delivery, strong uterine contractions are accompanied by abdominal contractions and expulsion of the kittens. The first thing you will see is a small, greenish sac visible in the vagina, which will be followed by the kitten. The placenta is still attached to the kitten at this time. It will slowly drag out following each birth. Although delivery of each kitten can take up to two hours the average time is thirty to sixty minutes. A kitten should not spend more than fifteen minutes in the birth canal. While in the birth canal, pressure on the umbilical cord deprives the kitten of oxygen. If you should see a kitten in this predicament grasp it gently through a soft clothe and pull it with a motion that is backwards and downwards. Grasp the kitten by its hips or shoulders and not by its legs or head. It is normal for kittens to arrive either head first or tail first.

After birth, The mother may discharge a bloody fluid for up to 10 days. Cats usually lick the discharge up as fast as it is produced. Only become concerned if the discharge becomes pus-like or has a strong odor.

Things To Keep On Hand When Your Cat Is Expecting:

  PET SAFETY

Cat Safety
Dog Safety
Strange Or Stray Dogs
General Safety Guidelines For Pets
When An Animal Is Injured

Cat Safety

Cats love to chew and play with anything that arouses their curiosity. They often are seen on television commercials running after a ball of string or playing with objects in the yard. Although it is perfectly normal for cats to chase, chew and play with objects that arouse their sense of curiosity, be careful that they do not eat these items and allow them to get lodged in their stomachs. Plus, string could get wrapped around their necks and strangle them. Do not allow them to play or chew on electrical cords since the danger of electrocution and burn injury is very real.

Christmas and Thanksgiving can be dangerous for cats. When cooking turkey or roast, carefully dispose of the grease-filled, flavorful strings in the outside garbage can with a secured lid. A cat will quickly get to them and could swallow some harmful items if they are not secured. Tinsel is also a threat. During Christmas, cats may play with the tinsel on the Christmas tree and swallow it. Tinsel is plastic coated and does not appear when x-rayed. This makes diagnosis of a stomach obstruction difficult. Just like all other electrical cords, Christmas tree light cords also should be placed out of a cat's reach.

Cats frequently eat objects that can cause obstruction or internal injury. A loss of appetite, vomiting or diarrhea is an indication that the cat is ill. The cat should be taken to the veterinarian for evaluation and treatment. Make sure your cat's vaccinations are up to date to prevent deathly infectious diseases. Also, be sure the cat has an ID tag on its collar. You have a greater chance of finding your animal should it become lost. The cat also should wear a "breakaway collar" that slips off the neck. This prevents the cat from choking to death should the collar become stuck on something. A commonly-held belief is that cats need to roam outside. This is not true. A cat that is allowed to run loose has a much greater chance of being killed by automobiles or injured in fights with dogs and other cats.

Dog Safety

A new puppy is a delight to play with and can bring joy and happiness to a young child and family. However, one must be aware of many hidden dangers, such as swimming pools, poisonous plants, toys, and household chemicals around the home, which can place an innocent puppy in danger. A common misconception is that all dogs can swim. This is not true. Dogs can drown just like children.

Keep young puppies and older, elderly dogs away from the pool. They are at particular risk of drowning since they may not be able to pull themselves out of the water if they fall in. Dogs should be trained to know where the steps are to get out of the pool. As with children, they never should be left unattended around swimming pools. Dogs, like cats, love to chase, chew and eat any number of things, which may potentially cause illness, injury or even death. Keep all toys that can be swallowed out of a dog's reach. They may cause stomach or intestinal obstructions. Select a ball that is large, relative to the size of the dog's mouth, or use other non-destructible toys recommended for dog's. Keep dogs out of the kitchen while you're cooking. You don't want a dog underfoot when you're carrying a pot of boiling water or a hot dish. Chocolate is poisonous to dogs so keep all chocolates away from them.

In older homes, do not allow dogs to chew on wood molding as this may cause lead poisoning. House plants such as oleanders, diffenbachias, azaleas, mistletoe and pyrachanthia berries are poisonous to dogs. These plants should be placed out of the animal's reach. Keep the dog away from freshly fertilized areas. They may become ill if they lick their paws after contacting chemicals and insecticides. Summertime heat poses a significant threat to the family dog. An animal who spends most of its time indoors may not develop thick pads on its feet. When walking or playing on hot asphalt during summer months, the dog's feet may become burned. Be careful not to let the dog run around a swimming pool too much. Cool-deck concrete can quickly wear their pads down. Heat exhaustion and heat stroke are common occurrences when dogs are left outdoors and exposed to the heat. The dog may die as a result. Keep them indoors or otherwise protected from the heat.

Provide plenty of water. If a dog is kept outside, provide a well shaded, ventilated area. A covered dog house in the sun becomes too hot and lacks adequate ventilation. An alternate shelter must be furnished. Be sure there is plenty of fresh drinking water at all times in the shade. It may be wise to provide two sources of drinking water in case one is spilled over. Use a weighted watering dish or dig a hole in the ground so the pan cannot be tipped over. A water device that attaches to a water spigot is available at the pet store. Avoid taking the animal in an automobile when running errands around town. Even on an 80 degree day, the temperature can reach 105 degrees in 10 minutes inside a car. The temperature has even been recorded at over 215 degrees inside a car on a hot summer day. (Water boils at 212 degrees.) If the dog is overcome by heat, cool immediately with cold water and ice and seek medical attention from a veterinarian as soon as possible.

When traveling with a dog inside a vehicle, it should not be allowed to stick its head out the window. Foreign objects can damage its eyes, and it can develop swelling to its ear flap from the ear flapping in the wind. While traveling, it is best to keep the pet in a dog crate or restrained in a commercially manufactured seat belt. The back of a pickup truck is no place for man's best friend. More than 100,000 dogs are killed each year from falls out of vehicles and numerous vehicle crashes are caused as drivers try to avoid hitting these animals. Commercially-made harnesses and tethers are available to restrain a dog in the back of a truck. Even so, the metal bed of a truck can be very hot during the summer and can burn the dog's pads or expose it to high temperatures.

If you'd like to read more:

http://phoenix.gov/FIRE/petsafet.html

Over the years, I have worked with many older citizens and dogs of various types. Many of the issues I get called regarding stem back to the owner not being able, due to age and/or physical/mental condition, to give a dog what is needed to be happy and a calm companion. Quite a few are on fixed incomes and cannot afford to hire regular dog walkers or use doggie day care to help meet the energy needs of a higher energy dog. Some are physically not strong enough to manage the type of dog they always owned in the past. Some are showing signs of an inability to concentrate or focus and even remember what was said to them a few minutes earlier. Dogs can be wonderful companions and bring joy to many older citizens. However, is the type of dog or a dog at all a suitable companion? I am hoping this will give our wonderful older friends and their family (who often are the source of the dog in their desire to give Mom or Grandpa a companion) an idea of what they need to think about before they choose a dog. So many of the issues I deal with in regards to seniors and dogs were avoidable with a better choice of companion.

Pets as gifts

Before I continue, I must briefly address pets as gifts. Under no circumstances should a live animal be a gift. The choice and timing of a pet is very personal. If your older friend or relative is actively seeking a pet, give a homemade gift certificate for the fee of that pet. However, let the person make the decision as to what should be best and when! Never go out and give a pet or try to talk a person into a pet because you feel they need one. Do not let a rescue or shelter play on your sympathies. Yes, owning a dog can provide many benefits physically and emotionally to a senior. However, dogs are a major commitment and the abilities of the owner, regardless of age, must be considered with a placement. Many seniors I consult with received pets by well-meaning folk. Some never wanted a pet but did not have the heart to refuse the gift. Others wanted the pet but received critters completely unsuited for them. In any case,    owners were overwhelmed and both dog and human, miserable.

What if the owner passes away or enters a nursing home?

Another concern, what will happen to the dog when the person is no longer able to care for him? Will family step up and take the dog? Is the dog to be returned to the breeder or rescue? Many dogs end up at shelters when a senior enters a retirement home or passes. It is saddening how many families get a dog for Grandma or Grandpa and then refuse to accept responsibility for the pet when the situation changes. Along with the ability of a person to meet the dog’s needs, family must consider what will happen to the dog long term.

 Health In Motion:

Topic:  Air Fresheners.... What about your Pet? Look at what's in Fresheners and you decide if you want your Pet exposed.

Air Fresheners Create Toxic Chemical Soup...
Did you know that by using an air freshener in your living room, you are probably breathing in more toxic substances than you would in the middle of a traffic jam in Los Angeles?

Paradichchlorobenzene (a white, solid crystal) has been shown to cause cancer in laboratory animals, and phenol (carbolic acid) is flammable, corrosive and very toxic. (Alive: Something in the Air, February 2004) Even more dangerous, formaldehyde, (admitted by the EPA to be a cause of cancer), and benzene (a carcinogen for which the WHO recommends zero exposure), may hang around the air after the use of several types of incense or electric scenter. Not to mention all the other chemicals not mentioned here and about which we know nothing. (WECF, 2005)
The following list of ingredients that may be found in air fresheners is taken from “Clinical Toxicology of Commercial Products“, by Gosselin, Smith and Hodge

Spray Type Deodorizers:
    * ethyl or isopropyl alcohol
    * glycol ethers
    * surfactant (quaternary ammonium salts)
    * perfume
    * water
    * propellants
    * metazene (4.0%)
   Just to name a few....

Wick Type Deodorizers:
    * formaldehyde (37%)
    * water-soluble perfume
    * coloring
    * water
    * emulsifiers
    * essential oils
    * aromatic chemicals (xylene)
    * chlorophyll

   Just to name a few....

Scented and aromatherapy candles are no better at clearing the air, and bear little or no relation to true aromatherapy. Such candles, are of questionable benefit regardless of the flowery implications of their names, and have negative effects on air quality and health. Aromatherapy candles:
    * are usually made of chemical (paraffin) waxes & toxic synthetic fragrance oils.
    * usually contain metal wicks made of lead or zinc. 100% is inhaled in the black soot which ends up in the bloodstream and can be particularly damaging to children.
    * create toxic byproducts. Burning scented oils, and even candles with pure essential oils, chemically converts the combustion into unhealthy byproducts.
Source: www.deliciousorganics.com

Electric air fresheners also problematic

One of the most innovative, and popular formats of purifiers is the electric air freshener. These use heat generated by electricity to spread fragrance through the air. It consists of a tiny plastic tray containing a gel-like fragrance concentrate. The consumer simply peels a multilayer barrier film from the top of the tray, leaving a permanent membrane layer that allows the fragrance to diffuse into the air. The tray is inserted into a warmer unit, which then is plugged into an electrical outlet. As the warmer unit heats up, fragrance permeates at a controlled rate through the film membrane, dispersing into the air. (gale-edit.com)

To read more:
http://healthinmotion.wordpress.com/2007/10/21/air-fresheners-create-toxic-air-soup/

Natural Flea Control For Your Pets                      

Let’s face it. Fleas are the WORST, but applying pesticides to our pampered pooches doesn’t make us howl with excitement either. In an attempt to find non-toxic flea control remedies, Care2 staff stumbled upon this amazing technique that kills fleas fast without toxic chemicals. While citrus peel extract (d-limonene) works well for dogs, cats can’t tolerate it, so this is an especially great choice. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powder comprised of microskeletons of deceased diatoms, which are a type of algae (both fresh water and sea water varieties occur). You sprinkle the powder on your pets and your carpets, and the fleas die from dehydration. As a foster care provider for hundreds of dogs, this stuff has been a miracle. You can use it on dogs, puppies, kittens, and cats.

How it works:
When applied to the animal’s fur, DE scrubs on the hard exoskeletons of fleas. The tiny granules of silicon (think finely ground sand) work in the tiny holes of the flea’s respiratory system and in the joints of the fleas. Every time the flea moves or breathes, the silicon grinds away at the exoskeleton, eventually killing the flea through blocking/maiming the respiratory holes or by water loss, as the exoskeleton helps keep in the flea’s body water. It works the same way when applied to carpets instead of fur.
How to use it:
1) Wear a mask and put one on your pet. Even though it’s nontoxic, you don’t want to get it in your lungs.

2) Sprinkle the DE along your dry pet’s spine. Massage it along the body, working your way carefully to the extremities, avoiding the eyes.

3) Spread some diatomaceous earth on the carpets, brush it in and leave for about four days. Then vacuum it up to remove most of the fleas in the carpet.

4) Repeat the application frequently during an infestation. You should notice a decrease in fleas within a couple days.

NOTE: Make sure not to use the kind of DE used in swimming pools. Use natural diatomaceous earth; it is available in gardens supply centers, some health food stores, and from natural-pet catalogs.

Recycled household items to make Cat toys.

By Stephanie Sharpe, Planet Green

Cat lovers will do almost anything for their cats. Buy organic treats, luxurious cat beds, fancy toys—anything to keep your kitty comfortable and entertained. This makes for big business surrounding pet pampering. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Your feline friend may be just as happy with ‘toys’ you already have around the house.

For example I’ve always heard that cats love the plastic rings from the tops of milk jugs. However my cats have long been deprived since I tend to buy soy milk or organic milk in cartons. But thanks to my roommate, my cats have now discovered the joy of milk cap rings, and I discovered the joy of watching them play with them. Take a break from kitty consumerism and try offering a few of these reusable household items as toys. You can spice up the ‘toys’ with cat nips or treats to make them even more interesting. It’s a great way to reuse household items that were headed for the recycling bin anyway, plus have tons of fun with your kitty.

Household Items that Double as Cat Toys

• Paper bags (remove any handles)
• Cardboard boxes (spice things up with a cat fort or make a cat scratcher)
• Old or torn sock (pour in some catnip to make it more interesting)
• Crumpled up scrap paper
• Tissue paper that is too old for reuse
• Old newspaper (when you’re done, donate them for animals)
• Pencils (unsharpened) or pens (remove ink)

Animal Planet also suggests:

• Toilet paper tubes (try putting treats inside)
• Wine cork
• Shower curtain rings
• Egg carton with treats inside

Note: for your cat’s safety, don’t let them play with anything smaller than a ping pong ball without supervision. Also be wary of strings and ribbons, cats can easily choke on these. Each of my cats has their favorite style of toy. One of them goes crazy for paper products like cardboard boxes and crumpled newspaper, while the other prefers to play with anything resembling a stick, like pencils or pens. So if your cat doesn’t seem interested in one toy, just give another a try. There is nothing like watching your cat discover something new. And you can enjoy this priceless fun for no price at all!

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/cat-toys-from-reused-household-items.html

Advocates for Feral Cats: Alley Cat Allies Urges Americans to Be Prepared For Disasters

Alley Cat Allies is reminding Americans of the importance of establishing a disaster plan for their family, their companion animals, and their feral cat colonies.

• A portable, battery-powered radio or television and extra batteries.
• Flashlight and extra batteries.
• First aid kit.
• Supply of prescription medications for pets and people.
• Credit card and cash.
• Personal identification and copy of veterinary and microchip ID records.
• An extra set of car keys.
• Matches in a waterproof container.
• Pet food, litter box, collapsible water bowl, leash and collar, blankets or towels.
• Photos of pets and cats in colonies in case they need to be identified.

Volunteers who respond to a disaster should try to transport the following items that are always in demand during emergency animal rescue:

• Bottled water
• Dry and canned pet food and can openers
• Dog crates and carriers
• Humane cat traps
• Old towels, sheets, and blankets
• Leashes and collars
• Litter boxes
• Heavy gloves
• Flashlights with batteries and lanterns
• Gas cards
• Portable generators
• Medical supplies: Like first aid kits.
• To read more: http://www.alleycat.org/NetCommunity/Page.aspx?pid=543
  

Does Dry Food Clean the Teeth of Cats?

By Jean Hofve, DVM

Let's get this one straight once and for all: dry food does not clean your cat's teeth! In fact, dry food really has no benefits for the cat. It is merely a convenience for the guardian. If you haven't already read "Why Cats Need Canned Food", that's a good place to start in your quest for accurate, up-to-date information on feeding cats.

Most cats don't consistently chew dry food; they swallow it whole. Obviously, without contacting the teeth, there is zero effect on tartar accumulation. For cats who do chew dry food, whether consistently or occasionally, there is still little or no benefit. The kibbles shatter, so contact between the kibble and the teeth occurs only at the tips of the teeth. This is certainly not enough to make a difference in the formation of tartar and plaque, which most commonly builds up along (and underneath) the gumline at the base of the teeth.

Keeping your cat's (or dog's) teeth and gums healthy requires a commitment on your part. Daily toothbrushing and regular veterinary cleanings are still important. The labels on even the special "tartar control" diets like Hill's t/d and Friskies dental diet recommend these additional steps. (Of course, brushing daily with periodic cleaning by the vet are sufficient to keep the teeth healthy by themselves, without using a special diet at all!) Dental diets are very different from all other dry foods. The kibbles are very large, and have a different texture than regular dry food.

http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=doesdryfoodcleantheteeth

Welcome to the official website of Victoria Stilwell. Victoria is one of the world's most recognized and respected dog trainers.   By serving as a judge in CBS' Greatest American Dog and as the host of the international smash-hit TV show It's Me or the Dog (airing in the US on Animal Planet), Victoria has been able to share her insight and passion for positive, reward-based dog training with an ever-broadening audience.  Central to her philosophy is the idea that to communicate effectively with your dog, you must learn to Think Dog. Here you can find out more about Victoria, her training methods, her public appearances, and her best-selling books - It's Me or the Dog:  How to Have the Perfect Pet, and  Fat Dog Slim: How to Have a Healthy, Happy Pet.  Also visit the forums and shop for her newest training tools.

All About Hamsters (VIDEO)

See the Video Below

Dying Your Dogs and Cats Fur Coat...

It's a trend that seems to be reaching celebrity status, more and more dog owners are dying their dogs hair.
What is interesting to note is that there are dyes approved for use on pets. However, the dyes carry a warning, since the dog can't lick it's coat while the color processes. Using food to stain the hair does seem like the safe alternative. If you are interested in dying your dog's hair safely, there is a guide on eHow.

There is even a group right here on Care2 for Dyed and Colored Dogs.

If you'd like to read more:

http://www.care2.com/causes/animal-welfare/blog/dye-your-dog/

Allergic to Your Pet...

Breathe easy—you can still keep your animal companion!

Although more and more people are discovering the beneficial effects of owning a furry bundle of joy, the fact remains that roughly 15 to 20 percent of the population is allergic to animals. The result? Countless owners in unhappy, unhealthy situations—and their beloved pets are the cause! Allergen is the medical term for the actual substance that causes an allergic reaction. Touching or inhaling allergens leads to reactions in allergic individuals. Symptoms can include red, itchy, watery eyes and nose; sneezing; coughing; scratchy or sore throat; itchy skin, and most serious of all, difficulty breathing. The most common pet allergens are proteins found in their dander (scales of old skin that are constantly shed by an animal), saliva, urine and sebaceous cells. Any animal can trigger an allergic response, but cats are the most common culprits. People can also become allergic to the urine, dander and saliva of exotic pets such as ferrets, guinea pigs, birds, rabbits and rodents. There is no species or breed to which humans cannot develop allergies. Fur length and type will not affect or prevent allergies. Certain pets can be less irritating than others to those who suffer from allergies, but that is strictly on an individual basis and cannot be predicted.

Improving the Immediate Environment

1. Create an allergen-free room. A bedroom is often the best and most practical choice. By preventing your pet from entering this room, you can ensure at least eight hours of freedom from allergens every night. It's a good idea to use hypoallergenic bedding and pillow materials.
2. Limit fabrics. Allergens collect in rugs, drapes and upholstery, so do your best to limit or eliminate them from your home. If you choose to keep some fabrics, steam-clean them regularly. Cotton-covered furniture is the smartest choice, and washable blinds or shades make good window treatments.
3. Vacuum frequently using a vacuum equipped with a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate arresting) filter or a disposable electrostatic bag. Other kinds of bags will permit allergens to blow back out of the vacuum.
4. Install an air purifier fitted with a HEPA filter. Our modern, energy-efficient homes lock in air that is loaded with allergens, so it’s smart to let in some fresh air daily.
5. Use anti-allergen room sprays. These sprays deactivate allergens, rendering them harmless. Ask your allergist for a product recommendation.
6. Clean the litter box frequently. Use low dust, perfume-free filler. Clumping litter is a good choice.
7. Dust regularly. Wiping down the walls will also cut down on allergens.
8. Invest in washable pet bedding and cages that can be cleaned often and easily.

Decontaminating Your Pet

1. Bathe your pet at least once a week. Your veterinarian can recommend a shampoo that won't dry out his skin. Bathing works to wash off the allergens that accumulate in an animal’s fur.
2. Wipe your pet with a product formulated to prevent dander from building up and flaking off into the environment. Ask your veterinarian to suggest one that is safe to use on animals who groom themselves.
3. Note any symptoms of dermatitis exhibited by your companion animal. Dermatitis often leads to accelerated skin and fur shedding, which will up your allergen exposure.
4. Brush or comb your pet frequently. It’s best to do this outdoors, if possible. (The ASPCA does not recommend keeping cats outdoors, so make sure your feline is leashed if you take him outside.)

Taking Care of Yourself

1. If possible, have someone other than yourself do the housecleaning, litter box work and pet washing, wiping and brushing. If you must clean the house or change the litter, be sure to wear a dust mask.
2. Wash your hands after handling your companion animal and before touching your face. The areas around your nose and eyes are particularly sensitive to allergens.
3. Designate a “pet outfit” from among your most easily washed clothes. Wear it when playing or cuddling with your companion, and you’ll leave other clothing uncontaminated.
4. Find a physician, preferably an allergy specialist, who will make sure that your pet is the cause of your allergies and will help alleviate your symptoms. Medications and immuno therapy (desensitizing shots) can often allow you and your companion animal to remain together happily ever after.

 Read more at:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-care-tips/allergic.html

         Some Thoughts On Why Your Pet Misbehaves

     Living with behavioral problems can be stressful for everybody involved. Dealing with behavior issues takes patience, sometimes requires visits to professionals, and always involves time and effort working with the animals at home. There’s no easy solution, no simple pill that will take care of the problem completely. If you find yourself feeling overwhelmed as you go through the healing process with your pet, don’t be too hard on yourself. Rest assured that others have had to deal with the same experience, and they understand what your household is going through. Getting to the underlying cause of your animal companion’s behavior issue requires looking at the whole picture — life before he came to you, health problems such as chronic pain, the environment you live in, and the connection he has with you. The state of your body, mind and spirit can and does affect your animal’s well being. Using therapies that treat more than just the behavioral signs (in the animal) or symptoms (in people) is very important. Approaching disorders as part of a larger picture is the definition of holistic, and combining the holistic approach with conventional medicine is called integrative medicine. I believe an integrative approach is essential for behavior disorders. Many types of complementary therapies are available for humans as well as animals, such as calming music, aromatherapy, herbs, massage and energy therapies. One of the most important things you can do to help your animal’s behavior challenge is to be aware of the dynamic between the two of you. As I have come to understand the energetic aspects of the human-animal bond, I see that animals instinctively mirror who we are. If you have a dog with separation anxiety, what anxiety issue have you not healed? For those of you with aggressive animals, please have the courage to look at where the human anger is lurking. Is it between people in the household, or perhaps anger from childhood?

One of the best spiritual gifts our animal companions give us is knowledge about ourselves. If our unresolved issue is being reflected back to us by our pet, then it is something that is affecting our lives. We may not be able to see it right now, but with time, this unresolved problem can manifest into illness or other dis-ease. Along with helping them through the behavior problem, we can honor our animal companions by taking care of ourselves. In doing so, we make their healing so much easier.

This information gathered is by Susan Wagner. If you'd like to read more: 

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/mirror-mirror.html

        Does Your Cat Eat Strange Things?

Is it normal for cat to eat strange things? As it turns out, just like humans can manifest a disorder called pica (whereby non-nutritive items like dirt and clay are eaten) so do cats. And it can be pretty common in our feline friends. In addition to tape and photographs, there is an abundance of other odd items that many a cat find irresistible: shoelaces, paper, plastic grocery bags, houseplants, shower curtains, even electrical cords. Yikes. And I am sure there is a whole of host of other strange things that cats find appealing to the palate. But why? Often times it’s nothing to worry about, but it turns out that pica has been associated with a number of diseases including feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus–a veterinarian should examine any cat with unusual eating habits. Here’s what a vet will look at when presented with a cat pica case:

Dietary deficiencies. Some cats will eat their cat litter if they’re anemic. This makes sense, as in the case of human pica the cause is quite often a mineral deficiency. Medical problems. Cat pica is also associated with feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency virus, or it may be triggered by conditions like diabetes or brain tumors.

Genetic predisposition. For some cats, pica might just be in their genes. For example, wool sucking, sometimes a precursor to pica, is seen more frequently in Siamese and Birman cats (More on wool below.)

Environmental factors. Is the cat bored or seeking attention? Maybe he needs more mental or physical stimulation. Behavioral reasons for pica can include boredom, attention-seeking, attractive scents, hunger, and learned behavior

Compulsive disorder. Once other possibilities are ruled out, some pet behavioralists start to look into the possibility of compulsive disorder.

A related behavior that is often seen in cats is the desire to suck on wool–and although this is often lumped together under the umbrella of cat pica, it seems to me to be of a slightly different nature. Nursing on wool seems more of a nursing behavior similar to kneading. To back me up, Arnold Plotnick MS, DVM, ACVIM, ABVP of Manhattan Cat Specialists says that “Wool-sucking is a commonly described abnormal ingestive behavior in cats. Wool-sucking, however, is a compulsive, misdirected form of nursing behavior and technically should be distinguished from true cases of pica.” He continues that “the younger a cat is weaned, the stronger its drive to nurse, and the more likely the cat is to suck on wool–or its owner’s arms, earlobes, or hair. Although some cats may only suck on such fuzzy items as wool, fleece, and stuffed animals, others progress to actually eating these fabrics.”

This information is a reference by Melissa Breyer of Care2.

If you'd like to read more:

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/does-your-cat-eat-strange-things.html

        Feeding Dogs Raw Eggs – Fad or Truly Nutritious?

In recent years, this has definitely become a question that all dog owners ask. Since raw food diets for dogs have become more and more popular, more dog owners are looking to see what kind of raw foods they can give their dogs in order to keep them healthy from the inside out. However, raw feeding is definitely a decision that an owner must make. Even today veterinarians are split on whether or not giving a dog raw food, like a raw egg, is healthy or if in the end it can cause some sort of ailment that may ultimately hurt the dog. If you decide that raw feeding may be a good option for your dog, it does take a lot of research and time in order to ensure that you are feeding your dog healthy food that won’t hurt his digestive tract. Of course a raw diet for dogs consists of raw meat, fruits, and vegetables, but owners can also feed their dog nuts, dairy products, and even raw eggs. Raw eggs are always on the chopping block so to speak, but many owners that do feed their dog raw eggs report that it does wonders. Since egg products are in most dog foods, owners don’t see why giving their dog a raw egg is a problem.

Owners who give their dog a raw egg once a week say that the egg is extremely helpful when it comes to shaping a dog’s coat and fur. Eggs are a great source of protein and the protein helps to protect the coat and keep it shiny. When you feed your dog a raw egg, even the shell is okay if the dog wants to eat it. Many people worry about salmonella due to the fact that the egg is raw. But, dogs have great immune systems, and their bodies do not react the same way a human’s body does when introduced to salmonella. If you are extremely concerned, you can always cook the egg by frying it, blanching it, or boiling it.

Dog owners who feed their dog(s) raw eggs point out that it’s important that the dog is given no more than a half to one raw egg one to three times per week, depending on the size of the dog. Too many raw eggs can upset a dog’s stomach, as well as affect the dog’s white blood cell count. Too many raw eggs can also cause your dog other ailments as the yolk is extremely fatty and contains a lot of cholesterol. This can be a problem, so be sure not to feed more than one raw egg a week. 

Plants Dogs, Cats and Horses should be kept from and out of reach: These are just a few.

• 

  Adam-and-Eve

• 

  African Wonder Tree

• 

  Alocasia

• 

  Aloe

• 

  Alsike Clover

• 

  Amaryllis

• 

  Ambrosia Mexicana

• 

  American Bittersweet

• 

  American Holly

• 

  American Mandrake

• 

  American Yew

• 

  Andromeda Japonica

• 

  Angelica Tree

• 

  Apple

• 

  Apricot

• 

Plus there are hundreds more: Cats:  http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/?plant_toxicity=toxic-to-cats  And Hundreds more:  Dogs:  http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/?plant_toxicity=toxic-to-dogs

Ten Things Fido Would Tell You if He Could Talk

1. Please get us spayed or neutered. It can reduce or eliminate our risk of getting cancer.

2. I am a pack animal, and I need to be part of the family. Please let me live indoors with you.

3. I need to go outside at least four times a day. Can you imagine only getting to go to the bathroom once or twice a day?

4. Please give me lots of exercise by taking me for long walks, and let me stop and smell the roses (or daisies). I love to explore, and our walks are my opportunity to express my natural curiosity.

5. Please don’t ever leave me alone in a car. Even on a mild day, the inside of a car can reach more than 70°C in minutes. I don’t perspire like you do and can quickly succumb to heatstroke.

6. Please train me with positive reinforcement. If you don’t train me, I won’t know that I’m not supposed to eat the birthday cake off the dinner table.

7. Play with me, and give me toys. But always supervise me to make sure that I don’t accidentally get in trouble.

8. Please get me a harness in addition to a collar. Harnesses are safer and much more comfortable.

9. I’ll get depressed without a social life, just as you would. So let me “chat” and play with other dogs on walks and at parks, or set up play dates for me.

10.  Please check the labels on my dog food! You’d be amazed at some of the unhealthy ingredients in some of that stuff.

Posted by Ashley Fruno http://blog.petaasiapacific.com/companion-animals/ten-things-fido-would-tell-you-if-he-could-talk?c=papenews

Tips and Tricks...

Home Herbal Remedies..Brought to you by "How It Works" People...

There's a great deal you can do to provide your dog with medical care at home. Don't expect to rival your veterinarian in expertise -- and don't try. Sometimes a sick dog has to go to the vet. But a broad knowledge of common dog illnesses and symptoms will make you a better dog owner, and it could mean a longer, happier life for your pooch. In this article, we cover a wide range of topics relating to dog care.

• Evaluating a Dog's Health
  
  For a variety of reasons, it's useful to know how to assess the health of your dog. Should your ailing dog be taken to the vet? Or is it something that can be addressed at home? In this section, we offer a basic checklist of exams you can give your dog to help you recognize common maladies and know how to treat them or when to call the vet. For instance, we tell you how to check a dog's eyes, ears, and mouth. Every dog owner should be familiar with this information.
  
  
• Home Remedies for Dogs With Fleas
  
  Fleas are a common problem for dogs, and it's easy to see why. Despite not having wings, they can leap from dog to dog. And that's when the trouble starts. Fleas are blood suckers, so they can do bad things to your dog's skin. In some cases, the fleas can cause harmful bacterial infections. Knowing how to deal with a dog that has fleas is of paramount importance. This page offers several basic flea guidelines, including ways to prevent your dog from getting them in the first place. It also tells you how to rid your dog of fleas without having to use chemical products.
  
  
• Home Remedies for Dogs With Foxtails
  
  A fox tail is a type of grass that has a spiky bristle on top. Fox tails easily can attach themselves to the coat of a dog and then pierce the animal's skin. In a worst-case scenario, these cuts can lead to a dangerous infection. What to do? For one, inspect your dog's coat after the animal has been outside. If you find a fox tail, remove it immediately. If you're unable to remove it yourself, then you need to call your vet. Follow our guide for dealing with the prickly menace that is a foxtail.
• And much much more....
  

  Pet Poison Alert: Accidental Ingestion of Wood Glue on the Rise...

Our country’s new-found thrift has lead many homeowners to save a penny by tackling do-it-yourself home improvement projects. But take care, pet parents—you may be exposing your furry friends to dangerous tools and tricks of the trade. Polyurethane glue, a water-resistant adhesive and favorite of woodworkers, is highly toxic if ingested by cats and dogs.

According to data from the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), pet poisonings from wood glues—and other adhesives containing the substance diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI)—are on the rise. In the past 12 months, the APCC handled more than 170 cases of pets who ingested expanding glues. Of those incidents, the majority involved dogs and were evaluated at high or medium risk for developing severe, life-threatening problems.

Polyurethane glue—also known by brand names like Gorilla Glue and Elmer’s Pro-Bond—is prized for its ability to bond to wood. If eaten, however, the glue expands in the stomach’s warm, moist environment and forms a softball-sized lump. A dog who eats even a small amount of MDI-based adhesive can experience severe gastrointestinal problems resulting in blockages and requiring emergency surgery to remove the mass.

Pet parents should treat any expanding adhesive as a potential hazard, since the offending chemical MDI is not always listed on product labels. Like all toxic household products, wood glue should be stored in a secure cabinet to prevent your furry beloveds from coming into contact with it. If you suspect your pet has ingested polyurethane glue, please call your vet or the ASPCA’s 24-hour poison hot line at (888) 426-4435. And for more information about keeping your pet domestically sound, check out our handy online guide to creating a poison-safe home.

           Yesterday's News...                                                         

We believe that the more informed you are about our products, the more rewarding your experiences with them will be. Check out these articles and tips to learn more about Yesterday's News® brand products and related topics.

Home Page:

http://www.yesterdaysnews.com/healthyLifestyle.html

       Is Your Pet a Toxic Dumping Ground?

By Nora Simmons, Natural Solutions

You work hard to reduce your family’s exposure to household toxins, but your pets may face a greater risk than you, says Olga Naidenko, PhD, senior scientist at the Environmental Working Group, “Where do our pets spend their time? They sleep on the couch, roll around on the carpet, and get dust carrying toxic chemicals all over their fur and then lick it off.” Relative to humans, dogs are burdened with three times more perfluorochemicals (PFCs)–the chemicals used to stain-proof furniture and sometimes coat the inside of pet-food bags and cans. Our canine companions also face two and half times the amount of human exposure to polybrominated diphenyl ether flame retardants (PBDEs), which are used on furniture and carpet. And our kitties absorb a whopping 23 times more PBDEs than we do, which they store in fatty tissue. Studies have linked PBDEs to thyroid and liver problems as well as cancer. While PBDEs and PFCs have been banned in many parts of Europe, they are still widely used in North America. But Naidenko says she has hope. “Now that we have this information, we can work toward manufacturing reform and better regulation.” In the meantime, here are some ways to lighten your pet’s toxic load:

• Choose pet food without the chemical preservatives BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin, and opt for organic or free-range ingredients to ensure pets are getting high-quality food.

• When you buy new furniture, resist adding stain-proofing treatments.

• Replace furniture or pet bedding whose exposed or crumbling foam may have been treated with flame retardants.

• Vacuum often, preferably using a HEPA filter. Since PFCs and PDBEs migrate through dust particles, keeping your carpets and furniture dust-free will help reduce contamination.

 If you like to read more:

http://www.care2.com/greenliving/is-your-pet-a-toxic-dumping-ground.html

Cocoa Mulch is Toxic...

Even if you don't have a pet, please pass this to those that do. Over the weekend the doting owner of two young lab mixes purchased Cocoa Mulch from Target to use in their garden. They loved the way it smelled and it was advertised to keep cats away from their garden.  Their dog Calypso decided that the mulch smelled good enough to eat and  devoured a large helping.  She vomited a few times which was typical when she eats something new but wasn't acting lethargic in any way. The next day, Mom woke up and took Calypso out for her morning walk.  Half way through the   walk, she had a seizure and died instantly.  Although the mulch had NO warnings printed on the label, upon further  investigation on the company's website, this product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.
Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that 'It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog).  However, 98% of all dogs won't eat it.'  

This Snopes site gives the following information: Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called 'Theobromine'.  It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die.  Several deaths already  occurred  in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution, check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens. The obromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs.
Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of the obromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and the ophylline. A dog   that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.
PLEASE GIVE THIS THE WIDEST DISTRIBUTION!!!

10 Ways to Help Animals during a Disaster

Disasters, such as tornadoes, earthquakes or hurricanes, can strike at any time, with little or no warning. Without an easy-to-execute plan, families are sometimes forced to choose between their own safety and the safety of their beloved animals. In recognition of World Animal Week, The World Society for the Protection of Animals has put together a few simple, easy, and effective actions you can take to help make a difference for animals when disaster strikes:

1. Have a plan: Take the time to make a plan and assemble an emergency kit for you and your pets. Consider your evacuation route and plan ahead for a safe place to take your animals. Research animal-friendly hotels, contact local shelters to see if they provide emergency shelter, and ask friends and relatives if they would be willing to take in your companion animal. Keep in mind that evacuation shelters are generally unable to accept animals.

2. Take your companion animals with you: If the severity of a disaster requires you to evacuate your home be sure to take your pets. It could be days or even weeks before you will be able to safely return to your house, and animals can easily be lost, injured, or killed if they are left behind to fend for themselves.

3. Place a window decal in your home: If you are not at home during an emergency, a well-placed window decal by your front door can notify responders that an animal is present in your home.

4. Support your local shelter:  Local shelters bear the burden of aiding lost or injured animals during an emergency. Make an effort to support your local organization with pet food, supplies or donations throughout the year. Also consider supporting shelters that work in disaster prone areas around the world. With your help these organizations can continue to provide their invaluable services to animals. Click here to find a WSPA member society near you. 

5. Make sure your animals have proper identification: All your pets should be wearing up-to-date identification tags that include your animal’s name, your name, emergency phone numbers and any urgent medical needs. In addition, veterinarians can microchip dogs and cats so that they can be identified without their collars in case they are separated from their owners.

6. Keep an emergency kit handy:  In the event of an emergency you’ll want to have everything your animals need assembled in a handy, portable kit. Include food, water, feeding dishes, cleaning supplies, cat litter, photographs of your animals, medication, extra collars and leashes, bedding, carriers, first-aid supplies and a list of emergency contacts.

7. Make sure your animal’s vaccinations are up-to-date:  Keep an extra copy of your companion animal’s health information in your emergency kit.

8. Set up a buddy system with your neighbor: Ask a neighbor to care for your companion animals during a disaster if you are not home and agree to do the same for him or her.

9. Support a Universal Declaration on Animal Welfare:  Each year natural and man-made disasters create great distress and suffering for millions of people. Sadly, animals are all too often not considered during emergency preparedness planning. Read about our new celebrity support for the declaration during World Animal Week.

10. Keep informed about disasters affecting animals around the world:  WSPA’s disaster relief teams are hard at work helping animals in the midst of emergencies around the world. WSPA also carries out disaster preparation work with at-risk communities before disasters strike. We work with local authorities to put disaster response plans in place and help communities reduce the risk of their animals suffering should disasters occur. Sign up for our e-news  to learn more about our work and read breaking news about our emergency relief efforts on our Animals in Disasters blog.

To help even more, donate to our Animal Disaster Fund today!

Read More: http://animalsindisasters.typepad.com/

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Veg Advantage offers food service brokerage with extensive culinary support. We work with cutting-edge vegetarian products that are designed to dazzle customers and generate bottom-line results. In addition to product sourcing, our services include menu development and cooking demonstrations. Our chefs have helped dozens of restaurants, universities, primary and secondary schools, and businesses incorporate vegetarian selections into their menus and cafeterias—and our consulting services are available to you free of charge. Our clients are all delighting their customers with innovative vegetarian dishes featuring our products.Whether you need menu suggestions, tips on working with new vegetarian foods, or sources for meat analogs and other vegetarian products, help is just a phone call away!  Consider the following facts: Providing a range of vegetarian options on the menu can help your restaurant escape the “veto factor”—where, for example, a family vetoes a restaurant because their vegetarian daughter doesn’t like the options there. An Aramark survey from 2006 found that 30 percent of college students want vegetarian options when dining out.  More and more non-vegetarians are adding meat-free foods to their dietary repertoire. From finicky teenagers to dieters looking for low-fat options to guests with dairy allergies to those seeking easy kosher choices, vegetarian meals are perfect for customers of all culinary persuasions. A recent poll indicated that 60 percent of today’s restaurant goers want vegetarian options to be available when they dine out.  Our trained chefs are on hand to answer your questions about vegetarian ingredients, cooking methods, recipes, and menu suggestions. We can also help you—for free!—to promote your new vegetarian menu items and reach out to local health and vegetarian communities, guaranteeing more customers for your new options!
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Career Information Many exciting options are available to certified ABC graduates Dog Training & Working With Animals

Job placement opportunities with Petco Animal Supplies
ABC is in a unique position to help you if you desire to work for Petco as a professional dog trainer. For over a dozen years, ABC's sister company, ABTA, had an exclusive relationship with Petco Animal Supplies, in which ABTA supplied all training classes for Petco. As a result of this relationship, ABC has extensive contacts with Petco and can actively assist if you desire employment with them. Click here To date, literally hundreds of ABC certified dog trainers have taught classes at Petco and Petco is keenly interested in anyone with ABC certification. Petco currently offers training classes in over 600 stores in the US.

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Ten Tips on Coping with Pet Loss

by Moira Anderson Allen, M.Ed.

Anyone who considers a pet a beloved friend, companion, or family member knows the intense pain that accompanies the loss of that friend. Following are some tips on coping with that grief, and with the difficult decisions one faces upon the loss of a pet.

1. Am I crazy to hurt so much?

Intense grief over the loss of a pet is normal and natural. Don't let anyone tell you that it's silly, crazy, or overly sentimental to grieve!

During the years you spent with your pet (even if they were few), it became a significant and constant part of your life. It was a source of comfort and companionship, of unconditional love and acceptance, of fun and joy. So don't be surprised if you feel devastated by the loss of such a relationship.

People who don't understand the pet/owner bond may not understand your pain. All that matters, however, is how you feel. Don't let others dictate your feelings: They are valid, and may be extremely painful. But remember, you are not alone: Thousands of pet owners have gone through the same feelings.

2. What Can I Expect to Feel?

Different people experience grief in different ways. Besides your sorrow and loss, you may also experience the following emotions:

• Guilt may occur if you feel responsible for your pet's death-the "if only I had been more careful" syndrome. It is pointless and often erroneous to burden yourself with guilt for the accident or illness that claimed your pet's life, and only makes it more difficult to resolve your grief.
• Denial makes it difficult to accept that your pet is really gone. It's hard to imagine that your pet won't greet you when you come home, or that it doesn't need its evening meal. Some pet owners carry this to extremes, and fear their pet is still alive and suffering somewhere. Others find it hard to get a new pet for fear of being "disloyal" to the old.
• Anger may be directed at the illness that killed your pet, the driver of the speeding car, the veterinarian who "failed" to save its life. Sometimes it is justified, but when carried to extremes, it distracts you from the important task of resolving your grief.
• Depression is a natural consequence of grief, but can leave you powerless to cope with your feelings. Extreme depression robs you of motivation and energy, causing you to dwell upon your sorrow.

3. What can I do about my feelings?

The most important step you can take is to be honest about your feelings. Don't deny your pain, or your feelings of anger and guilt. Only by examining and coming to terms with your feelings can you begin to work through them.

You have a right to feel pain and grief! Someone you loved has died, and you feel alone and bereaved. You have a right to feel anger and guilt, as well. Acknowledge your feelings first, then ask yourself whether the circumstances actually justify them.

Locking away grief doesn't make it go away. Express it. Cry, scream, pound the floor, talk it out. Do what helps you the most. Don't try to avoid grief by not thinking about your pet; instead, reminisce about the good times. This will help you understand what your pet's loss actually means to you.

Some find it helpful to express their feelings and memories in poems, stories, or letters to the pet. Other strategies including rearranging your schedule to fill in the times you would have spent with your pet; preparing a memorial such as a photo collage; and talking to others about your loss.

4. Who can I talk to?

If your family or friends love pets, they'll understand what you're going through. Don't hide your feelings in a misguided effort to appear strong and calm! Working through your feelings with another person is one of the best ways to put them in perspective and find ways to handle them. Find someone you can talk to about how much the pet meant to you and how much you miss it-someone you feel comfortable crying and grieving with.

If you don't have family or friends who understand, or if you need more help, ask your veterinarian or humane association to recommend a pet loss counselor or support group. Check with your church or hospital for grief counseling. Remember, your grief is genuine and deserving of support.

5. When is the right time to euthanize a pet?

Your veterinarian is the best judge of your pet's physical condition; however, you are the best judge of the quality of your pet's daily life. If a pet has a good appetite, responds to attention, seeks its owner's company, and participates in play or family life, many owners feel that this is not the time. However, if a pet is in constant pain, undergoing difficult and stressful treatments that aren't helping greatly, unresponsive to affection, unaware of its surroundings, and uninterested in life, a caring pet owner will probably choose to end the beloved companion's suffering. Evaluate your pet's health honestly and unselfishly with your veterinarian. Prolonging a pet's suffering in order to prevent your own ultimately helps neither of you. Nothing can make this decision an easy or painless one, but it is truly the final act of love that you can make for your pet.

6. Should I stay during euthanasia?

Many feel this is the ultimate gesture of love and comfort you can offer your pet. Some feel relief and comfort themselves by staying: They were able to see that their pet passed peacefully and without pain, and that it was truly gone. For many, not witnessing the death (and not seeing the body) makes it more difficult to accept that the pet is really gone. However, this can be traumatic, and you must ask yourself honestly whether you will be able to handle it. Uncontrolled emotions and tears-though natural-are likely to upset your pet.

Some clinics are more open than others to allowing the owner to stay during euthanasia. Some veterinarians are also willing to euthanize a pet at home. Others have come to an owner's car to administer the injection. Again, consider what will be least traumatic for you and your pet, and discuss your desires and concerns with your veterinarian. If your clinic is not able to accommodate your wishes, request a referral.

7. What do I do next?

When a pet dies, you must choose how to handle its remains. Sometimes, in the midst of grief, it may seem easiest to leave the pet at the clinic for disposal. Check with your clinic to find out whether there is a fee for such disposal. Some shelters also accept such remains, though many charge a fee for disposal.

If you prefer a more formal option, several are available. Home burial is a popular choice, if you have sufficient property for it. It is economical and enables you to design your own funeral ceremony at little cost. However, city regulations usually prohibit pet burials, and this is not a good choice for renters or people who move frequently.

To many, a pet cemetery provides a sense of dignity, security, and permanence. Owners appreciate the serene surroundings and care of the gravesite. Cemetery costs vary depending on the services you select, as well as upon the type of pet you have. Cremation is a less expensive option that allows you to handle your pet's remains in a variety of ways: bury them (even in the city), scatter them in a favorite location, place them in a columbarium, or even keep them with you in a decorative urn (of which a wide variety are available).

Check with your veterinarian, pet shop, or phone directory for options available in your area. Consider your living situation, personal and religious values, finances, and future plans when making your decision. It's also wise to make such plans in advance, rather than hurriedly in the midst of grief.

8. What should I tell my children?

You are the best judge of how much information your children can handle about death and the loss of their pet. Don't underestimate them, however. You may find that, by being honest with them about your pet's loss, you may be able to address some fears and misperceptions they have about death.

Honesty is important. If you say the pet was "put to sleep," make sure your children understand the difference between death and ordinary sleep. Never say the pet "went away," or your child may wonder what he or she did to make it leave, and wait in anguish for its return. That also makes it harder for a child to accept a new pet. Make it clear that the pet will not come back, but that it is happy and free of pain.

Never assume a child is too young or too old to grieve. Never criticize a child for tears, or tell them to "be strong" or not to feel sad. Be honest about your own sorrow; don't try to hide it, or children may feel required to hide their grief as well. Discuss the issue with the entire family, and give everyone a chance to work through their grief at their own pace.

9. Will my other pets grieve?

Pets observe every change in a household, and are bound to notice the absence of a companion. Pets often form strong attachments to one another, and the survivor of such a pair may seem to grieve for its companion. Cats grieve for dogs, and dogs for cats.

You may need to give your surviving pets a lot of extra attention and love to help them through this period. Remember that, if you are going to introduce a new pet, your surviving pets may not accept the newcomer right away, but new bonds will grow in time. Meanwhile, the love of your surviving pets can be wonderfully healing for your own grief.

10. Should I get a new pet right away?

Generally, the answer is no. One needs time to work through grief and loss before attempting to build a relationship with a new pet. If your emotions are still in turmoil, you may resent a new pet for trying to "take the place" of the old-for what you really want is your old pet back. Children in particular may feel that loving a new pet is "disloyal" to the previous pet.

When you do get a new pet, avoid getting a "lookalike" pet, which makes comparisons all the more likely. Don't expect your new pet to be "just like" the one you lost, but allow it to develop its own personality. Never give a new pet the same name or nickname as the old. Avoid the temptation to compare the new pet to the old one: It can be hard to remember that your beloved companion also caused a few problems when it was young!

A new pet should be acquired because you are ready to move forward and build a new relationship-rather than looking backward and mourning your loss. When you are ready, select an animal with whom you can build another long, loving relationship-because this is what having a pet is all about!

               Microchipping

Finding a Lost Pet 

When your beloved dog or cat strays from home, it can be a traumatic experience for both of you. Here are some tips that we hope will help  you find your pet.

• Contact local animal shelters and animal control agencies. File a lost pet report with every shelter within a 60-mile radius of your home and visit the nearest shelters daily, if possible. To find your local shelter go to www.pets911.comor check your phone book. If there is no shelter in your community,contact the local police department. Provide these agencies with an accurate description and a recent photograph of your pet. Notify the police if you believe your pet was stolen.
• Search the neighborhood. Walk or drive through your neighborhood several times to search. Ask neighbors, letter carriers, and delivery people if they have seen your pet. Hand out a recent photograph of your pet and information on how you can be reached if your pet is found.
• Advertise. Post notices at grocery stores, community centers, veterinary offices, traffic intersections, online at www.pets911.com,and other locations. Also, place advertisements in newspapers and with radio stations. Include your pet's sex, age, weight, breed, color, and any special markings. When describing your pet, leave out one identifying characteristic and ask the person who finds your pet to describe it.
• Be wary of pet-recovery scams.When talking to a stranger who claims to have found your pet, ask him to describe the pet thoroughly before you offer any information. If he does not include the identifying characteristic you left out of the advertisements, he may not really have your pet. Be particularly wary of people who insist that you give or wire them money for the return of your pet.
• Don't give up your search. Animals who have been lost for months have been reunited with their owners.

A pet—even an indoor pet—has a better chance of being returned if she always wears a collar and an ID tag with your name, address, and telephone number. Ask your local animal shelter or veterinarian if permanent methods of identification (such as microchips) are available in your area.

A microchip? Ask yourself- How many people would actually take the time to take a stray to a vet or the humane society and then pay to have a chip scanned?

http://www.helpmefindmywayhome.com/

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